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Hello, My KitchenAid (photo of info label attached) ice-maker works intermittently (maybe two cycles/day). After ice-eject, tray fills with water,

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:02 AM
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Default Kitchenaid: intermittent, slow icemaker
Model Number: Kscs251nss00   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello,

My KitchenAid (photo of info label attached) ice-maker works intermittently (maybe two cycles/day).
  • After ice-eject, tray fills with water, water freezes, but doesn't eject for several hours. I get about three cycles per 24hrs.
  • When flapper is closed, light blinks twice between one-second pauses.
  • I removed & thawed ice-maker module overnight; no change.
  • When in doubt, wiggle stuff! Oddly,giggling the ice-making module seems to induce an eject-cycle.
I'm a retired electrical engineer so I'm capable of make any diagnostic voltage measurements.

Thanks in advance. You guys helped me fix my electric stove for about $75 when two local yokels quoted me $700.

..
Joe

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/joec/Desktop/Temporary/photo.JPG[/IMG]


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2012, 12:47 PM
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Hi.

According the info you provided it's a bad optic ice level control.
When you close the flapper door the light should be steady on.

The optic control kit Part number: 4389102

Part number: 4389102


Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool KSCS25INSS00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you.

Simon.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:25 PM
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I'm sorry, but I misread the sense of the question about the light. In fact, it pulses twice followed by a one second pause when the flap is OPEN.

When the flap is closed, it is steady on.

Sorry about the false start here.

..
Joe
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:00 PM
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If the freezer temperature is OK (-2 to 2*F) then most likely

it's the ice maker Part number: 2198597

Part number: 2198597


Thank you.

Simon.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team View Post
If the freezer temperature is OK (-2 to 2*F) then most likely

it's the ice maker Part number: 2198597

Part number: 2198597


Thank you.

Simon.
Simon,

Things are curiouser and curiouser. Notice I used the word intermittent in the title of my post?

After I received your first reply (tellilng me that the indicator light should be off), I went down and checked and indeed it was off. When I did that, I noticed that the machine had made three successful ice cycles. (I put a paper towel in the ice bucket to detect successful cycles.)

Three hours later, I checked the ice bucket again and there had been no ice cycles. Moreover, the indicator light continued to blink when the flap was closed. So something is intermittent on one of the two boards.

When I order the kit, does it contain instructions for gaining access to the two boards?

..
Joe
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:29 PM
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Hi.

I don't thing it does, but it's a pretty much straight forward job. Just don't forget to unplug the unit.

Simon.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:57 AM
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Well, I replaced both boards--but no joy. The visible red LED still blinks even when the flapper door is closed.

I see no way I could have gotten either Molex connector reversed because of the plastic interlocks.

Since the detector LED is not in the visible spectrum (or if it I can't see it), I have no way of knowing whether the transmitter or the receiver board is defective.

On the remote possibility I got one or more bad board, I've asked for replacements. I'd be very surprised if the current replacements are defective, though.

Any thoughts?
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerDriver View Post
...The visible red LED still blinks even when the flapper door is closed...
I would like you to redo this test. Make sure the optics lenses are clear, the slide switch is On, the flapper door is closed, there is nothing blocked the optic beam and the door switch is untouched.

After you will do it, I would like you to do the next test. The instructions are attached to the reply.

Post the results of both tests please.

Gene.
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File Type: doc MANUALLY STARTING AN IDI ICE MAKER.doc (20.0 KB, 33 views)
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
I would like you to redo this test. Make sure the optics lenses are clear, the slide switch is On, the flapper door is closed, there is nothing blocked the optic beam and the door switch is untouched.

After you will do it, I would like you to do the next test. The instructions are attached to the reply.

Post the results of both tests please.

Gene.
I'm among the several million people who lost electrical power about 10 days ago. For seven days I stayed at a motel, ate out, and was generally miserable in 100-plus daytime temps. When it became clear that the power wasn't coming on soon, I emptied my fridge, gave it a DEEP cleaning--then flipped its breaker to OFF. (During this week the new optical boards arrived.)

Yesterday was my first day with power restored. Before turning on the breaker to the fridge, I replaced the two optical boards. (I'm a retired EE, so I have confidence that I installed them correctly.)

After replacing them I made sure:
(1) the optics lenses are clear (in fact, they're new)
(2) the slide switch was On, the flapper door was closed, and nothing was blocking the optic beam."

Under these conditions, the red LED would blink regardless of the position of the flapper door; the diagnostics I've read here (and those that came with the boards) indicated that the LED should remain steadily ON. Nevertheless, the ice maker has, in fact, make some ice--about a half a bucket full in the approx twenty hours since I replaced the optical boards.

I just now noticed your final test condition: "and the door switch is untouched." I had never closed the door switch as part of any of my earlier tests, so I just now went down and retested with the door switch taped in the OFF position. The internal light bulb goes dark, as, of course, does the LED. After an hour, no new ice has been made.

With respect to the instructions for "Manually Starting an IDI Ice Maker," I assume that since my unit has been making ice--albeit slowly--this test may be unnecessary. If you still wish me to perform the test, I'll need a diagram showing where test-points T and H are located.

Thanks,
Joe

Last edited by TigerDriver : 07-10-2012 at 12:30 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:36 PM
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Hi Joe,

Per the wiring diagram (attached to the reply), power to the optic boards supplied by the control board (#19 at the diagram). Verify the proper voltage and make sure it is not fluctuating. If this control board is the cause of the problem then unfortunately, this part is no longer available.

The warmer (above 10F) temperature in the freezer will cause slow ice production too.

Gene.
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