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This morining the freezer was at 36 degres and the refridgerator at 56 degrees.
My kids moved all the food out and whe I got home it was 57 & 69 respectivly.
Unplugged and reset,no change.
I cleaned the Condensor with compressed air, the Condensor Fan was running. The Compressor was warm~hot to the touch. The entire area was cleaned to look an new as possible.
I opened the freezer compartment, and I find the Evaporator Packed in ice.
I used a hair dryer to melt it all and have so far left it running. When I closed the door the temp was 93 in the freezer and 86 in the refridgerator.
One hour has passed and it is now 59 in the freezer and 69 in the refridgerator.
How quick should it return to normal (if this was my problem) and what else should I look for? Other than temp, all other functions are OK.
I assume there should be a defroster of some type, and I *believe* that teh Evaporator can't function full of ice.
It is now 8:42 and my temps are 56 & 67. Its going in the right direction.
Thank you for your input.
Raymond
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
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Hi.
Waite for 12 hrs and check the temp.
Post the results and we'll go through the defrost system troubleshooting.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team  Hi.
Waite for 12 hrs and check the temp.
Post the results and we'll go through the defrost system troubleshooting.
Simon. This morning the freezer was at -3 and the fridge at 33 (my exact set point for testing) The evaporator already has a light build up of frost, but all is well so far. I'm looking the schematic over to see whats what, but not having much luck yet. Its obvious at this point the system is not defrosting, my biggest fear is that there may be no Timer, and it runs off the Main control board. I've had it replaced 2x under warranty (once under factory warranty and once under the extended warranty ). The unit is now out of any waranty. $$ :( Thanks for any help. Raymond
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Rank: Member
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Update:
Looking at the schematic (I'm an EE) I traced the wires back to the Mother Board. :mad:
One line from the mother board (Lt. Blue) supplies one potential of my 120V to the Defrost Heater. It also (via splices in the harness) supplies 120V to various other items, water dispenser valves, Compresor etc.. The other things all work, so it's safe to assume that the Mother Board is outputting 120V.
The other line that supplies the second portential to the Defrost Heater is a dedicated line. This must be the 'control' line. This tells me there is no external timer for the defrost cycle. (Bad news)
So I'm looking at a bad Mother Board, Defrost Therm, Defrost heater or an issue with the harness.
Is there a way to evoke a defrost cycle? :confused: I need to get a meter on the heater to see if I am getting voltage to it. If not I can trace it back to the Main Board or break in the harness.
If I DO have voltage, then this says I have a bad Heater or Defrost Therm.
My bet is a bad Mother Board?
Is this accurate?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
You need to check the defrost thermostat and the heater for continuity. Make sure that the thermostat is ice cold when testing. Most likely that what it is. If both checks OK - then it's the control board.
Thank you. Post the results.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi.
You need to check the defrost thermostat and the heater for continuity. Make sure that the thermostat is ice cold when testing. Most likely that what it is. If both checks OK - then it's the control board.
Thank you. Post the results.
Simon. I sure will, but isn't there a way to induce a defrost cycle? I suppose the continuity check will tell me if either part is bad, but in last 48 hours, I don't think I've ever heard the condenser or fan shut off. Does this system work on the principle that it defrosts on a timer, regardless of if it neeeds it or does it need some feed back to tell it to defrost? Raymond
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Hi.
You need to check the defrost thermostat and the heater for continuity. Make sure that the thermostat is ice cold when testing. Most likely that what it is. If both checks OK - then it's the control board.
Thank you. Post the results.
Simon. I think I misread your post. Are you saying that the thermostat in this circuit is used as a on/off device? I assumed it was a thermal limiting device should something get too hot and draw too much heat. If as an on/off device, then I should always have 120V to the two wires feeding the heater, right? Or is there some calculting or processing of the temp somewheres that allows the main board to turn on an/off the voltage? The schematic shows a jumber in the main board, labeled "DEFROST JUMPER" and it has two positions: OPEN - ADC and SHORT - TIMER. I dont think this will effect my issue as it hasn;t been changed in years, so what ever position its in, will be the correct one, or the jumper is there for use in a different model. Still.... Thank you, Raymond
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
To activate manual defrost press and hold freezer t* UP key while pressing fresh food t* DOWN key 5 times within 6sec. To deactivate defrost repeat the steps.
The defrost is an Adaptive Defrost Control not just the timer.
Thank you.
Simon.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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HI.
Sorry missed your last respond.
The defrost thermostat is a bi metal attached to the evaporator sensing the defrost t*. The 120v is there ONLY when the control board initiating the defrost. May I ask you to do the actual testing and post the results?
Thank you.
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team HI.
Sorry missed your last respond.
The defrost thermostat is a bi metal attached to the evaporator sensing the defrost t*. The 120v is there ONLY when the control board initiating the defrost. May I ask you to do the actual testing and post the results?
Thank you.
Simon. I have continuity thru the heater element and the thirmistor. I can not get a voltage reading from the LT Blue & Brown wire, which is the wire from the Main board that powers the series heater/thermistor circuit. So if the thirmistor is a bi metal, its used then like circuit protection, should things get too hot. Mine is closed, so I'm assumming it's good. The Defrost Heater also has continuity, so again I am assuming it is good. I disconnected the wires from the Thermistor and Defrost Heater and checked for 120VAC at the connector. Nothing. What tells the controlboard to initiate the defrost? I can't condem then main board if its not outputing a voltage if its requiring a signal or other input to tell it to turn on. Thats why I've been asking about evoking a desfrost cycle to test the voltage. Thanks, Raymond
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