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raihansdg  
#1 Posted : Saturday, June 23, 2012 4:29:49 PM(UTC)
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raihansdg

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Hi Everyone,

I am brand new to the forum. First of all I want to say that the information in the forum is truly very helpful.
MY GE refrigerator is not cooling. I think the compressor is not turning on. I checked for continuity test on the compressor and it works (am I even supposed to check for continuity on the compressor? How do I know if the compressor is actually functioning?). There are no vibrations on the compressor and it is cold. The relay, overload, and the capacitor are all working fine as I tested them. All the lights work and pretty much everything works except for the cooling part. Please help me. Thanks :(

-Calahan
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Sunday, June 24, 2012 2:16:22 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Most probable problem is the motherboard in the back (AP4436216) Remove it and look for bad solder joints in back of the power relay.
raihansdg  
#3 Posted : Sunday, June 24, 2012 10:08:53 AM(UTC)
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raihansdg

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Richappy,

I appreciate your help. I opened the motherboard from the fridge and looked at it carefully and even tested some components with the multimeter and it looks fine. Any other probable causes?

Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Most probable problem is the motherboard in the back (AP4436216) Remove it and look for bad solder joints in back of the power relay.
richappy  
#4 Posted : Sunday, June 24, 2012 11:24:44 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Remove the motherboard 2 pin, gray power connector and place a wire jumper between the plug mating pins labeled line and comp. Plug in fridg. If the compressor now runs, you have a bad motherboard. It's also possable you have no voltage to the motherboard, but rather rare.
You can also remove J1 connector on the board and check resistance between pins 5 and 4. If open, replace the evaporator thermistor.
richappy  
#5 Posted : Sunday, June 24, 2012 11:27:00 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Remove the motherboard 3 pin, gray, power connector and place a wire jumper between the plug mating pins labeled line and comp.on the motherboard. Plug in fridg. If the compressor now runs, you have a bad motherboard. It's also possable you have no voltage to the motherboard, but rather rare.
You can also remove J1 connector on the board and check resistance between pins 5 and 4. If open, replace the evaporator thermistor.
raihansdg  
#6 Posted : Sunday, June 24, 2012 4:18:13 PM(UTC)
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raihansdg

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Richappy,

You are the man! I took another look at the mainboard and it seems to me there was a short circuit. The question is can it be fixed or do I need a new motherboard? They are not cheap. Please take a look at the pictures.

Also, when I opened the capacitor I made a noobie mistake. I do not remember which cable goes where. The pictures will help you understand. Thanks once again, you are extremely knowledgeable in this field!!!

Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Remove the motherboard 3 pin, gray, power connector and place a wire jumper between the plug mating pins labeled line and comp.on the motherboard. Plug in fridg. If the compressor now runs, you have a bad motherboard. It's also possable you have no voltage to the motherboard, but rather rare.
You can also remove J1 connector on the board and check resistance between pins 5 and 4. If open, replace the evaporator thermistor.
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richappy  
#7 Posted : Monday, June 25, 2012 12:08:34 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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This is an easy re-solder job, just re-solder that one and all other relay pins.
Helps to put a 1000 joule surge protector in the wall outlet. All run capacitors are non-polar.
raihansdg  
#8 Posted : Monday, June 25, 2012 11:14:27 AM(UTC)
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raihansdg

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Will try to re-solder and will let you know.
Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
This is an easy re-solder job, just re-solder that one and all other relay pins.
Helps to put a 1000 joule surge protector in the wall outlet. All run capacitors are non-polar.
raihansdg  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, June 27, 2012 6:07:25 AM(UTC)
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raihansdg

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Re-soldering worked!! Thank you for all your help. Finally, the fridge is working again.

Would a 900 joule work as a surge protector?

Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
This is an easy re-solder job, just re-solder that one and all other relay pins.
Helps to put a 1000 joule surge protector in the wall outlet. All run capacitors are non-polar.
richappy  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, June 27, 2012 7:51:46 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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I use a Belkin F9H100-CW 1080 loules $6.99 at Amazon, made for major appliances. This has 3 movistors protecting all pins. Some older units blow open on a power surge which is bad news for a fridg. ok for a stereo.
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