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Similar PTC's can I swap for testing?

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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair

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Afternoon, I have a failing fridge that has a PTC part# (in white on it) of 8EA 401 13 M4R

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Old 06-19-2012, 01:55 PM
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Default Similar PTC's can I swap for testing?
Model Number: Haier and Sanyo SR170X   Brand: -brand-   Age: Less than 1 year   

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Afternoon,
I have a failing fridge that has a PTC part# (in white on it) of 8EA 401 13 M4R
I suspect it may just be the PTC, as multimeter tests seem to be as expected across terminals and to ground.

I have another fridge with a PTC Part# (In white on it) of P6R8MC OR0404

While they do interchange, the lead connector is on the opposite side, and looks to be connected to connection 3 on the P6R, and connection 2 on the 8EA.

Would this just mean the start and run connections are reversed? Or are these identical PTC? just in different configurations outside?

I'd like to swap them out, but afraid to kill the good one. If they are reversed, I'm assuming I can also just put in some bx wiring to reverse them onto the compressor terminals just for testing no?

So are these the same connection wise?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2012, 03:54 AM
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If you hold the old ptc device with the input spade terminals facing you and the plastic tab on top, then measure the ohms from one input terminal to either round, output terminal. One measurement will be between 5 and 10 ohms. If blown, it will be infinite. Mark down the pins. Then measure the new ptc device. The identical pin measurement should be between 5 and 10 ohms.
Post results. I must warn you, with any bad luck, using the new ptc device may blow out the compressor start winding, so you muist be carefull.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
If you hold the old ptc device with the input spade terminals facing you and the plastic tab on top, then measure the ohms from one input terminal to either round, output terminal. One measurement will be between 5 and 10 ohms. If blown, it will be infinite. Mark down the pins. Then measure the new ptc device. The identical pin measurement should be between 5 and 10 ohms.
Post results. I must warn you, with any bad luck, using the new ptc device may blow out the compressor start winding, so you muist be carefull.
Well, I went ahead and tried anyhow, cause I didn't have this reply yet, and was jonesing for the answer. So it started for about 1 second, then a click. I did smell a faint smell of electrical burn, so lets cross fingers. The overload did kick in, as it was HOT AS A MOFO when I removed it and it click back over after about 1 minutes of cooling. I'm hoping that shut off the compressor. I was only going to try it for one second anyhow, not leave it in there.


I'm going to get the original PTC today and try it. I will not be able to try the supposed good PTC that I borrowed from the smaller fridge back in the original fridge until later this week. I'm hoping actually that that's what the burning smell was. So I'll end up getting two PTC's and have two working fridges, or I'll only have the smaller one again in worse case.

Guess I just couldn't wait Sorry. I'll let you know the results when I get the new PTC and install it.

The overload is supposed to click open like it did, and then click back closed when cool, correct?

And also (Now I'm sounding stupid) does the hot wire directly from the outlet power go to the overload or the PTC. The other wire from the outlet goes to the thermostat control in the fridge above. Or does it matter since it's AC?
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:57 PM
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The wires from the fridg are polarity insensitive, so you can swap them, no problem.
I hope you made a diagram of the wires to the ptc device, they must be hooked up the same way. Also, I assume you do not have a run capacitor to wire in.
Please post results, but it's possable you fused open the start winding. You might want to use an ohmeter and verify the start winding is not blown. It's also possible you burnt the start winding. If it fails to start with the new device, that would confirm it.
For your information, your start winding was trying to dissapate 4 kwatt till the klixon dropped out! I am hoping you didn't fuse it open.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
The wires from the fridg are polarity insensitive, so you can swap them, no problem.
I hope you made a diagram of the wires to the ptc device, they must be hooked up the same way. Also, I assume you do not have a run capacitor to wire in.
Please post results, but it's possable you fused open the start winding. You might want to use an ohmeter and verify the start winding is not blown. It's also possible you burnt the start winding. If it fails to start with the new device, that would confirm it.
For your information, your start winding was trying to dissapate 4 kwatt till the klixon dropped out! I am hoping you didn't fuse it open.
Think it's OK.
Ohm meter test shows 7 ohms across either compressor pin which overload goes on, to either start or run pins.
And 15 ohms across the start and run pins.

Am I okay?
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:08 PM
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The Old PTC is definitely blown, as the ohm testing showed infinite on one, and about .1 ohms on the other. Ohmmeter between the two outlet holes for the compressor pins is infinite as well.

The good relay shows and 5.1 ohms on one output, .2 no the other output, and 5 ohms across the two output holes that go on the compressor pins.

So I'm assuming approximately 5 ohms across the two outputs on the PTC means it's good?

Wish I knew that from the beginning, and I couldn't find that on these forums. 8(

Now it's here!
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