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A couple weeks ago I noticed that ice cream in the freezer was soft, refrrigerator was not as cold as

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Old 06-13-2012, 08:39 AM
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Default Amana Refrigerator/Freezer Problem
Model Number: SBD20S4E   Brand: Amana   Age: More than 10 years   

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A couple weeks ago I noticed that ice cream in the freezer was soft, refrrigerator was not as cold as desired. Repairman checked it out and said there was most likely a coolant leak, but could be the compressor. He recharged the system with coolant and a sealer. That has lasted less then two weeks.

Any suggestions? May need to bite the bullet and buy new.

Thanks.

Dave


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 08:57 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for SBD20S4E models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Is the compressor running normally or is it on all the time or switching on/off often or not on?

Ifon all the time remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils.

If there is just frost in one area usually where the freon enters the coils you are indeed low on freon.

But if they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for SBD20S4E models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Is the compressor running normally or is it on all the time or switching on/off often or not on?

Ifon all the time remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils.

If there is just frost in one area usually where the freon enters the coils you are indeed low on freon.

But if they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
Cover removed and it is totally frosted over.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:37 AM
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They have to be frosted up to the point that the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.

See the attachment for the tech sheet. It has info on how to force a defrost cycle etc.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

Manually force a defrost cycle see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor turn off you are in defrost.

Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the defrost board (Item 9 in Section 10) needs replacing, re: it is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 25 in Section 4) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 10 in Section 4) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:43 AM
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Thanks. Have defrosted and will see what happens. Really apprciate the information. Dave
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
They have to be frosted up to the point that the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.

See the attachment for the tech sheet. It has info on how to force a defrost cycle etc.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

Manually force a defrost cycle see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor turn off you are in defrost.

Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the defrost board (Item 9 in Section 10) needs replacing, re: it is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 25 in Section 4) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 10 in Section 4) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Well, two weeks have passed and the unit has frozen up once again. (see attached photo)

I attempted the forced defrost procedure and the unit just kept running.

I wasn't quite sure of the location of whether the defrost heater was inside the freezer or inside the rear panel, so did not check to see if it was on or hot.

As you indicate, it is most likely the defrost board (Control adaptive-defrost), item 9 on panel 10 of the parts list). Unfortunately, the system indicates that the board is "not available".

I do have a meter, a Cen-Tech P37772, purchased from Harbor Freight, so if I need to further check the heating element or the defrost thermostat, I can. I'll need to freeze the thermostat in order to conduct the test as indicated.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:14 PM
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Denmen,

Thanks for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.

Tonight I was able to run the various procedures, continuity and voltage checks that you suggested.

I followed the procedure for a forced defrost without success. The evaporator fan did not stop and I saw no indication that the defrost heater had activated. I do not know for sure if the compressor was operting, but the unit was frozen and I saw no indication that it was cycling on and off.

After unplugging the unit, I checked the continuity of the defrost heater. Reading indicated about 40 ohms.

I then checked the defrost thermostat which was caked in thick frost and the meter indicated 0 ohms.

I then checked the defrost control board for voltage (located in the box above the drip pan) and found appropriate line voltage from L1 to L2. I also had the appropriate line voltage from R to L2 and F to L2 with the refrigerator and freezer door open. I did not see line voltage from K, T, C, or D to L2 as by now the I'm quite sure the cold control contacts were open.

I've put it all back together, started it up, and will see if it freezes up over night.

At this point I'm at a loss for what else to check. Any additional recommendations by Denmen or others would be greatly appreciated.

R/Dave
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:59 AM
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When you could not force a defrost it pointed towards a blown defrost board.
Which you have confirmed since the defrost thermostat and the heater check out OK.

I would call AppliancePartsPros to see if they have one even though it does not show up.
Their part number is AP4009935.
The Whirlpool part number is 12050506.

I did check the Sears site and they show it as available so I am not sure about the boards actual status.
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:58 AM
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Denman,

I'll order a new board.

This morning the unit was not frozen, but it was not even cold and there was no ice being made. I suspect that I may have loosened something somewhere when unplugging the heater or thermostat.

One other question, should the evaporator fan in the freezer operate all the time or just during the cooling cycle? Does is stop when the freezer door is open? When I was reassembling the unit last evening I had turn the unit on and with door open, I noticed that it was not running.

Thanks again.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:17 PM
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One other question, should the evaporator fan in the freezer operate all the time or just during the cooling cycle? Does is stop when the freezer door is open?
I would say it only runs when the compressor runs also I do not know if it stops when the freezer door is open.
But I am guessing here and am not 100% sure.
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