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Model Number: RSW24E0DAE Brand: Maytag Age: More than 10 years
I have a 1995 Maytag refridgerator. The ice maker stopped working a few weeks ago. Water still dispenses for drinking. I had a repair man come out. He tested it and said it was the water valve. He didn't have one with him and told they could come back or I could just order one on the web and install it myself - he showed me how to do it. After he left, he called back 10 minutes later and said he was mistaken and that the problem was actually the ice maker itself - he told me how to replace that too and said to just order one off the web. So - I ordered a replacement ice maker, installed it with no problem, verifed that there was power with a paper clip (as the repair man showed me that too) - but still no water. So - I ordered a replacement water valve off the web - installed that with no problem - but still no ice to the ice maker (the water dispenser for drinking still works fine). I could call another repair person I guess - but I was hoping someone might have some guidance for me.
Thanks, Bill Ads By Google Related Models |
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Hi Bill,
Make sure the water feeding tube into the ice maker is not frozen. Gene.
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Thanks Gene - I had already checked inside and it looked okay - I pulled off the feeder tube that leads to the ice maker and I used a screw driver to go up into the tube that connects to the freezer and that seemed clear. I just read one other item online that said I should disconnect the tube from the water valve and blow into it - if air goes through I assume I'm clear of ice - I'll try that tonight when I get home. I'll respond back tonight.
Thanks, Bill |
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Quote:
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator? Gene.
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Gene,
Here's the current status (still focused on icemaker not working for Maytag RSW24E0DAE). I have done the following: (1) I poured water into the ice maker - then let it cycle normally - it froze it and dispensed it into the ice bin properly. (2) I disconnected the hose for the ice maker from the valve and blew air through it - I'm sure there's no ice blockage. (3) I disconnected both clips to the water valve and put a voltmeter in each one - when I pressed the water dispenser, I got 120V, when I forced a cycle of the ice maker I never got any voltage reading (and I waited for 10 minutes or so to make sure it made a complete cycle). Please recall that I have already replaced the existing ice maker with a new ice maker, I also replaced the water valve with a new valve (and the water dispenser is still working). So - I still can't figure out what's wrong - could the 2nd icemaker be bad also?? How can I test the ice maker to check the method by which it should turn on the water flow? Could it be bad wiring from where the ice maker hooks into the fridge to where the wiring connects with the water valve? If so - do you know how I could test that? Thanks for any guidance you can provide. Bill |
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Hi Bill,
There are two wires connected to the ice maker solenoid at the water valve: tan and white. Unplug the refrigerator. Unplug the ice maker plug from the wall and, using a piece of wire, short the two terminals where these wires (tan & white) were connected to at the wall plug. Disconnect the wires from the ice maker water valve solenoid and for continuity between them. It should read less than 1 Ohm. Post the results. Gene.
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Gene,
I just did the resistance test. You said it should read less than 1 Ohm. It read 2.9 Ohms. Specifically, I shorted the connection points for the tan and white harness wires on the inside wall of the freezer, I disconnected the the connector from the water valve that feeds up to the ice maker (and note, one side of the connector is also wired to the connector for the water dispenser), I connected my multimeter to both sides of the connector for the ice maker, tested for Ohms and it came out as 2.9. What's next? Thanks, Bill |
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Bill,
That's very strange. It suppose to be some voltage reading at the water valve solenoid for the ice maker. Install the ice maker back in place and plug it in. Do the next test: Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in. If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution. Check the voltage at the water inlet valve and post the results. Gene.
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