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Amana fridge bottom vent blocks w ice inside

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I have an Amana fridge with the freezer on the bottom. We have had it for over 10 years and

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Old 05-16-2012, 10:25 AM
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Default Amana fridge bottom vent blocks w ice inside
Model Number: BX-21VW   Brand: Amana   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have an Amana fridge with the freezer on the bottom. We have had it for over 10 years and have never had any problems, until now. A couple weeks ago the fridge seemed to be getting warm and then the freezer followed in a couple days. At this point we didnít think the fridge was getting warm we knew it was more than just the door being left open. I vacuumed all the coils behind the front kick plate and turned the fridge and freezer dials up to 6. The next day had no improvement. I unplugged and took off the panel on the back of the fridge and inside the freezer. I vacuumed the back of the fridge. Behind the panel in the freezer was a solid block of ice encasing the coils and blocking the vent to the fridge. I defrosted with a hair dryer. Put everything back together, and left the dials at 6. A week and a half later the air flow was down and the fridge was starting to warm. I put my hand in front of the vent at the back top of the fridge and opened the freezer door and the air flow increased, confirming a air flow blockage. I read online that to pour some warm water down the vent in the back corner at the BOTTOM of the fridge would fix the air flow problem. It did. I also read that the dials should be at 4 so I did this also to both. Now about a week later I noticed the air flow is slow again, which means the temp will be going again, again I poured some warm water down the back corner vent in the bottom of the fridge, and the air flow increased. I donít want to keep messing with this, so I would like to know what is probably broken. The fans work. The compressor turns off and on, though it might be running more often, but I donít know, I am just paying attention now. (It hasnít had a problems in 10+yrs, so I never paid attention to how long it was ďonĒ before.) I believe I have heard a distinct click when the compressor turns off but nothing else of notice. I havenít taken the back panel in the freezer off yet, but in general the inside of the freezer is free of frost. I am assuming something wore out because this vent being blocked is new, so something isnít working right anymore. What is a part or two I could replace to solve this issue so I donít have to keep messing with it weekly? Thank you.


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Old 05-16-2012, 12:59 PM
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Hi.

Based on the information you provided the problem is defrost system failure.
There are three parts involved :
- defrost timer ( Located bottom right behind the grill).
-defrost heater and
-defrost thermostat both located at the evaporator in the freezer.
Turn the defrost timer shaft CW slowly until the fridge stops.
Waite 10 min. You should hear hissing sound from the defrost heater.
If the heater is on - replace the timer.

The defrost timer Part number: R0131577

Part number: R0131577


If not - remove the evaporator cover and check continuity at the defrost thermostat and heater. The thermostat must be ice cold when tested.

The defrost thermostat Part number: 10442411

Part number: 10442411


The defrost heater Part number: 10428409

Part number: 10428409


Make sure that all the snow is melted and air ways are open.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Amana BX21VW REF - BOTTOM MOUNTS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.
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Last edited by Simon / APP Team : 05-16-2012 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 05-16-2012, 02:53 PM
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Default How to check the defrost thermostat

Thank you for your reply. Whem I turn the defrost timer shaft (clockwise?) wait 10 min, if it hisses, is it okay or bad? How do I know if the heater is on? What if there is no noise after the fridge stops. Finally, do I need to turn the timer shaft back to the original position after this test? So if it isn't broken then I can move to the next test, or have it work until the order part shows up. Should I just order the two the timer and thermostat because maybe they both wear out and I am inthere working anyway? Someone elses post got a response that said if there is no frost on the back wall in the freezer then its not the defrost stuff. what do you think? There isn't any frost on the back wall that faces my food right now in the freezer.

Last edited by Hope Tofixit : 05-16-2012 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:22 PM
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Default Before I start testing the defrost timer and the defrost thermostat

Thank you for your reply. When I turn the defrost timer shaft (clockwise?) wait 10 min, if it hisses, is it okay or bad? How do I know if the heater is on? What if there is no noise after the fridge stops. Finally, do I need to turn the timer shaft back to the original position after this test? So if it isn't broken then I can move to the next test, or have it work until the order part shows up. Should I just order the two the timer and thermostat because maybe they both wear out and I am inthere working anyway? Someone elses post got a response that said if there is no frost on the back wall in the freezer then its not the defrost stuff. what do you think? There isn't any frost on the back wall that faces my food right now in the freezer. thank you again
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:18 PM
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Hi.

If the defrost heater makes hissing noise, that means it's HOT and that means it's good and also the defrost thermostat is good.

To start the refrigerator turn the defrost timer CW until the compressor will start.

Lets start from the beginning.

What are the symptoms now?
Does the cold air comes into the fresh food compartment?
If not is the evaporator blocked with snow?
Please remember, that you are my eyes and hands. You've got to answer my questions or I won't be able to diagnose the problem.

Thank you.

Simon.
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Last edited by Simon / APP Team : 05-16-2012 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:15 PM
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Default Today there is frost on the back wall and behind in freezer

Simon, thank you for your help so far. So I did the test of turning the timer, had a winding sound as I turned it about a turn and a half. The compressor shut off and the fridge is quiet no noise. I mentioned in the title there is most definately frost on the back panel in the freezer, and I can tell by a gentle push on the panel that the coils are covered also. After about 10 minutes I didn't do anything but the compressor just kicked on by itself. I never heard any hissing. So what parts can I order to best fix this problem. The weekend is almost here and I would rather not defrost the whole thing again and again if I can just order the part(s), defrost and then install new parts. Thank you for your help, I like to grow in the knowledge of repair but the parts and symptoms are a learning curve. btw is it best when replacing parts like the thermostat that I should just replace the timer at the same time, because they are both worn out so eventually will need to be changed? Thank you again, I plan to order today, what do you recommend? If I really need to do the continuity test I would have to find the meter and if you can include a link where I can follow what I am looking for while doing it and how to set up the meter. unless you think it probably the thermostat because its not the timer. Thank you

Last edited by Hope Tofixit : 05-17-2012 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:25 PM
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Hi.

You can order all 3 parts, the heater is less probable cause.
You can return any unused parts even if they been installed.

Thank you.

Simon.
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:21 PM
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You can order all 3 parts, the heater is less probable cause.
You can return any unused parts even if they been installed.

Thank you.

Simon
Is it less likely it is the timer though because it turned on without me doing anything? WIth the panel off in the back coils are covered in snow/ ice and it is clear that the element has not turned on no sign that the ice has melted at all around it, does that mean it is the defrost heater or will that not turn on if the defost thermostat is broken. the ice/snow is in an even layer all over the whole area behind the panel. does this narrow it to the most probable two causes. I wasn't sure also if there is an answer to if it is better to just replace the timer even if it is not bad because I am changing the thermostat? did the symptoms i described so far seem to indicate a bad timer? Seems like the defrost thermostat and maybe the defrost heater depending on how you answered the question above about the defrost thermostat. Thank you. sorry it took me a few to get back on here i didn't get an email that you had answered my post. Thank you.

Last edited by Hope Tofixit : 05-17-2012 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:37 PM
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Default The defrost thermostat has no continuity

I am ordering a defrost thermostat because there is no continuity (the the test was actually easy! Finding the meter in the garage was the harder part). Thank you for your help- God bless
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:19 AM
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You are very welcome.

Simon.
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