[rpp]

Both freezer and fridge stopped cooling suddenly. no ice on coils. fans are running, lights work. i've read about the adaptive control board and see there is a way to test it by jumpering two points forcing it to go from compressor mode to defrost mode. i am hoping there is a way to test it to go from defrost to compressor mode, since the compressor is not running. do the fridge and freezer have separate thermostats... if so, the thermostat(s) are not the culprits since both compartments stopped cooling at the same time. any other culprits if the board is not the problem??

[Gene]

If both fans are working but the compressor is not then it has nothing to do with the ADC board nor the thermostats.

The problem can be a bad compressor starting device or a bad compressor itself. Remove the starting device and shake it. If it makes a rattling noise, replace the starting device.

- The starting device Part number: 67005560

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Maytag MSD2641KES REF - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[rpp]

gene - thank you. finally got to checking your suggestion today.. .i removed the start device, but no rattle :-(. i check the two wires going into it and it showed 117V (close enough to 120 i guess). both fans run but neither the fridge or the freezer is cooling. is it a bad compressor or could it still be the start device even though it didn't rattle? is there a way to test the compressor?

[Gene]

You can check the start device for continuity between the terminal where the hot wire is connected to and each of three terminals (holes) which go to the compressor. If there is continuity at all, replace the start device.

You also can check the compressor as instructed in one of our previous threads: GE refrigerator just clicks but does not cool

Gene.

[rpp]

my posts are infrequent because i only have time to work on the fridge on weekends.... so i replaced the start device, even though the old one didn't rattle. when it was out i measured the run winding at 3.3ohms, but the start winding was closer to 5ohms than the specified 4.2... but i'm not sure if my reading was accurate. i also measured 8.3ohms between run and start. o shorts between any pin and the compressor. but i am still not getting cooling in either the fridge or freezer and both fans are running. what do i do next?

[Gene]

Did you check the start device?

The test for the electrical part of the compressor looks good but there is mechanical part of it which can not be tested. Does it make any humming noise at the start up?

Gene.

[rpp]

Originally Posted by Gene

Did you check the start device?

The test for the electrical part of the compressor looks good but there is mechanical part of it which can not be tested. Does it make any humming noise at the start up?

Gene.

i replaced the start device. it was not the problem.

here is the original post"

"Both freezer and fridge stopped cooling suddenly. no ice on coils. fans are running, lights work. i've read about the adaptive control board and see there is a way to test it by jumpering two points forcing it to go from compressor mode to defrost mode. i am hoping there is a way to test it to go from defrost to compressor mode, since the compressor is not running. also, do the fridge and freezer have separate thermostats... if so, the thermostat(s) are not the culprits since both compartments stopped cooling at the same time. any other culprits if the board is not the problem??"

here's why i think it may not be a compressor problem: even though the compressor is not running, i measure 120VAC at the input and, when the connector is removed, the start windings are at 4.2 Ohm, the run windings are at 3.3 Ohms, there is 8.3 ohms between run and start and there is no short between the pins and the compressor body.

doesn't it make sense that the defrost control board could be forcing a continuous defrost? if that is the case, it would turn the compressor off but keep the fans running, right? is there a way to jumper the board to force the compressor on? if so, then i can determine if my compressor is good or not.

does anyone out there know enough about the defrost control board to help me with this?

RPP

[Gene]

Originally Posted by rpp

...doesn't it make sense that the defrost control board could be forcing a continuous defrost? if that is the case, it would turn the compressor off but keep the fans running, right?...

No, this is wrong. Both fans are running only when the compressor is on too.


You said

...even though the compressor is not running, i measure 120VAC at the input...

It must run in such situation if there is nothing wrong with the start device or the compressor itself.

Gene.

[rpp]

Gene - thank you for your help. I was hoping it was not the compressor since i don't have the skill to replace it and with the cost of doing so, i may as well replace the fridge. it was a maytag and only 3 years old (i don't believe in buying warranties).

per your last note, how does the defrost cycle get the warmer air circulated if the fans are not on?

in any event, your help is hgihly appreciated. i will buy a new fridge today. probably either an LG or a GE.

cheers!

RPP

[Gene]

Originally Posted by rpp

...how does the defrost cycle get the warmer air circulated if the fans are not on...

You are welcome RPP. There is no forced air circulation during the defrost cycle. The warm air just comes up by itself because of difference in wait between cold and warm air.

I don't think it's a good idea to buy a LG fridge. Whirlpool or GE is a better choice and look for a model without any electronics.

Gene.