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Updated Whirlpool Relay with Extra Connections

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Greetings - Was VERY pleased that my part arrived almost within 24 hrs from ordering online so none of my

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Old 05-04-2012, 02:52 PM
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Default Updated Whirlpool Relay with Extra Connections
Model Number: EHD261MMCR1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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Greetings - Was VERY pleased that my part arrived almost within 24 hrs from ordering online so none of my food may spoil !!! Ordered replacement relay for original part# 548071 and received your replacement part# AP2979571. My original had 1 red wire going to it (directly to the start terminal) and from that a thin bare wire wound around the external shaft of the relay over to the run terminal. I want to make sure that I now use terminals 1 and 3 and provide them BOTH with the same red wire that comes from my overload device. The serial number for the fridge is S12941259.

Thanx for such great service - Paul


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Last edited by PTherriault : 05-05-2012 at 04:11 AM. Reason: Clarity
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2012, 04:05 PM
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I have it installed with 1 and 3 wired directly from the red wire from the overload relay - just waiting for your response to plug in the fridge. I am concerned the new relay does not have the feature of that thin wound wire going to the run terminal of the compressor and may do damage to it.
Thanx Again - Paul

Last edited by PTherriault : 05-05-2012 at 04:12 AM. Reason: Concern for compressor damage
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:41 PM
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Check your model #. Be carefull and do not plug in the fridg, if the start device is wired wrong, you will burn out the compressor.
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:47 AM
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Model number above is correct per the faceplate. Part number is also correct on the damaged relay. Still waiting before I plug it in.
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:51 AM
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Trace where the red wire goes, it probably goes to the run capacitor which is wired between the left and right black plastic ptc device terminals.
If you made a diagram which wires whent where, then just plug them into the new start device. If you failed to note the wiring, then notify us for wiring info.
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Last edited by richappy : 05-06-2012 at 04:48 AM.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:52 AM
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The thick red wire comes from the fridge (through the thermostat and is shared by the evaporator fan and the condenser fan according to the wiring diagram found in the unit) directly into the cover into the overload. It leaves the overload on a smaller red wire through a female connector to the run terminal on the start relay. Permanently soldered to the male run relay terminal (and the only terminal on the damaged original part) is a very thin wire that is wound around an external shaft and then it's soldered to the tab for the start terminal. The damaged relay is crispy from being overheated and all contacts have continuity so it's tough to trace anything from that. If I read the schematic for the internals of the relay that outside coil of wire may be what energized/tripped the relay? If that's correct does both terminals of the compressor get 110v to start it until the coil pulls off the 110v from the start terminal and the other terminal lets it run until the thermostat is satisfied? In that case maybe the new relay has the switching inside (maybe solid state and not mechanical?) and wiring to 1 and 3 is OK. I just need to check before plugging it in.
Thanx Again - Paul
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:56 AM
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I have never seen a thin, enameled red wire stuck in a compressor terminal unless it's a coil wound around a old style, mechanical start relay. From your description of the wiring, the thin, red wire is shorting the power wires between the overload and start device!
If you have a ohm meter, hold the ptc device with the tab up and the input spade terminals facing you. Measure the resistance from either input terminal to either round, compressor terminal. One input terminal will measure short to one output terminal and 5 to 10 ohms to the other output terminal.This terminal gets the fridg power wire, the other input terminal gets only the run capacitor wire and no other wire. The other run capacitor wire goes to the other input ptc spade terminal.
The other power lead goes to the klixon overload device.
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Last edited by richappy : 05-06-2012 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:54 AM
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I guess I didn't wait long enough. It started up. seems fine so far. Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:29 AM
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Not sure where that last post came from but I DID NOT plug it in.

OK - The thin wire wound around the external shaft (with a black plastic winged piece) of the old part MAY have been red enameled but when found it is now blackened bare wire. I suspect you may be correct in that it is a mechanical relay with the windings used to pull the contacts off the start position leaving just the run contact live to the compressor.

On the second part of your post I am unsure about what you mean. 1st are you asking me to measure the old or new part or the actual compressor pins? Before I ordered this part I checked the resistance of the compressor pins - 2.2 ohms & 5.8 ohms to the top pin and 7.9 ohms between the bottom ones so I figured the compressor is good.

The old part had only 1 spade lug (at least for connecting purposes unless no remains are found for any other possibilities) and that was directly connected to a standard coated red wire from the overload relay. This is what prompted this discussion because the new directions on the new part has only options for 2 and 3 wire connections.

I do not know of any run capacitor wires unless they vanished and I see nowhere for them to connect to the old relay.

I will add also that the schematic only shows that 1 wire to the start relay from the overload. The only other wire is the neutral that was connected directly to the top pin of the compressor.

If you want me to measure the new part or the interaction between the new part and the compressor pins, I will need to pull the fridge forward and open it back up.

Thanx Again - Paul
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:37 AM
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Want to see a photo of my old relay?

http://www.********.com/itm/WHIRLPOO...em58920a c3a4

All the red wire coating is burned off and now not as neatly wound. The only connector is that one on the lower left that shows the winding wire that is attached to the solder tab on the other side for the run pin on the compressor. No other wires found except the white going directly to the top compressor pin. The part is shown upside down and marked with the word "TOP" and "M" (Motor or run) underneath. It (as well as the new part) can only be installed one way otherwise the white neutral wire won't fit on the compressor.
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