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What's wrong with my Ice Maker?

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Help, Here's the sequence of events. 1. My Ice Maker stopped making Ice. It's only job as far as I

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Old 04-28-2012, 09:02 PM
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Default What's wrong with my Ice Maker?
Model Number: FRT18PRH   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Help,

Here's the sequence of events.

1. My Ice Maker stopped making Ice. It's only job as far as I am concerned.

2. I discovered the copper hose from the back Inlet pump to the supply line was crimped. So I had no water flowing through the copper pipe to the pump.

3. I closed the valve on the "Self Tapping" insert valve thingy on the supply line and cut the copper hose at the spot of the crimp. I planned to put a 1/4" x 1/4" union in place to repair the crimp.

4. While waiting to get the parts, I could hear the little blue pump/valve sucking air through the cut off copper pipe, while trying to fill the Ice Maker. The Ice Maker arm would also go through it's motions but with no water to freeze.

5. Instead of putting in a union, I replaced the copper, end to end with Plastic Tube. No problems noticed with that process. No Leaks.

6. I opened the valve on the self tapping thingy in my supply line and saw water " Noticably slowly" flowing through the plastic tube.

7. No leaks, not obvious issues, but it still doesn't work. What I do see, right where the plastic tube enters the connection to the pump on the back of the fridge are some air bubbles. The hose is vertical at this point, and the air bubble slowy rises from the compression fitting at the bottom, to the point where the plastic tube curves and goes down. Then it drops back to the compression fitting, then up again and so on. What's up with that?

I took the hose off of the "output" of the inlet pump, and there is no water at all. But remember, the same day I replaced this hose, I heard the little pump sucking air. So the pump has been working, but since I put on the new hose, it hasn't sucked any water through it.

So what do you think is my problem and why?
What if any additional info do you need?

I am thinking a pressure problem, but I'm an electronics guy, so it's just a guess.

Thanks for the help


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Last edited by Totallytalm : 04-28-2012 at 09:17 PM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2012, 03:44 AM
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No leaks, not obvious issues, but it still doesn't work. What I do see, right where the plastic tube enters the connection to the pump on the back of the fridge are some air bubbles. The hose is vertical at this point, and the air bubble slowy rises from the compression fitting at the bottom, to the point where the plastic tube curves and goes down. Then it drops back to the compression fitting, then up again and so on. What's up with that?
You lost me here.
I do not know if you had the unit unplugged when you worked on it.
If you did then you will have to wait till the ice maker gets down to a set point temperature. It should then call for water.
The parts does not give a good view of the ice maker but some of them have an off/on switch, If you hold the switch on it starts a cycle. You have to let the ejector arms move about 10 degrees and then you can let go of the switch.

I took the hose off of the "output" of the inlet pump, and there is no water at all. But remember, the same day I replaced this hose, I heard the little pump sucking air. So the pump has been working, but since I put on the new hose, it hasn't sucked any water through it.

There is not a pump.
Are you referring to the inlet solenoid Item 55 in Section 4.
There will not be water there till the ice maker calls for water activating (opening) the solenoid valve.


Here is a manual which may help though it covers lots of units.
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/inde...=view;down=290
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:13 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

Forget about the Air Bubble issue. It's too hard to explain in text and based on what I know now, it's probably irrelevant.

Sorry, for some reason I thought it was a pump that when the maker wanted more water, it would pump up the correct amount. So you are saying it's just a solenoid that the Ice Maker opens when it needs more water and the pressure "Should" be enough to get the water up there????

Anyway, as I was saying, I could hear the solenoid making noise periodically before I replaced the hose. But since there was no supply, it just sucked air. But since I replaced the hose, I can't be sure if it's opening or not, or if it's opening and there isn't enough pressure to get the water all the way up through the Solenoid and to the top. This is why I checked the "output" of the solenoid. I figured, even if it wasn't full of water there would be some water present on the outline line of the solenoid. But it seemed bone dry.

BTW - I poured water directly into the Ice Maker Tray and it worked perfectly. So it's just not getting water.

So I would guess right now that either the Solenoid coincidently stopped working the same day I replaced the hose (I hate coincidental troubleshooting solutions), or for some reason I don't have enough water pressure to make it all the way up to the top of the fridge and into the ice maker. Maybe it's the Auto Tapping Valve thingy that clamps to the supply line and punches a hole in it?

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for the help
Talm

Last edited by Totallytalm : 05-01-2012 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:43 AM
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So you are saying it's just a solenoid that the Ice Maker opens when it needs more water and the pressure "Should" be enough to get the water up there????
Yes. It is house pressure so should have lots.
Perhaps loosen the supply fitting at the valve. If it starts to squirt out water then you know you have pressure there. Would be a good idea to have another person at the shut off just in case it pops off.
Also unplug the unit when doing this, water and electrical just don't mix well.
Since you no longer hear the solenoid opening I doubt this is your problem but is worth checking.


BTW - I poured water directly into the Ice Maker Tray and it worked perfectly. So it's just not getting water.

OK so it should have filled with water as part of it's cycle.
I am not sure what the ice bucket full mechanism shuts off on this unit but I would check that it is in the down position.

Could be that the solenoid is toast.
Could be that it had a poor internal connection and went open when you replaced the line.

I would check it with a meter for continuity.
Unplug the fridge and at least one wire from the solenoid when doing this.
This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
If it is open then you know it is toast.
If it has continuity then it does not eliminate it as the problem as it may have mechanical problems.
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