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bad thermal overload?

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(I'm not sure of the age of this refrigerator - we got it used 5 - 10 years ago). (Refrigerator

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Old 04-26-2012, 08:33 PM
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Default bad thermal overload?
Model Number: RT14F3WLCD   Brand: Gibson   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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(I'm not sure of the age of this refrigerator - we got it used 5 - 10 years ago).

(Refrigerator serial number: 1048712339)

The frig was cycling on and off every few minutes and the freezer wasn't freezing food. When I removed the thermal overload it stopped cycling on and off but now it doesn't seem to be able to turn off by itself.

I tested the relay with an ohm meter between terminals 1 & "L" and 2 & "L". I get 0 ohms on one that changes to infinite when turned upside down and 0 on the other both right side up and upside down. When I shake the relay it rattles, but shouldn't it do that since it is supposed to move when you turn it upside down?

I was thinking of replacing the overload (and the relay also).

Should the thermostat turn the compressor off when it reaches the right temp even though there's no overload?

Thanks for your help.


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Last edited by benj : 04-26-2012 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:08 AM
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When the fridg is running, is the compressor vibrating and warm?
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
When the fridg is running, is the compressor vibrating and warm?
The compressor is vibrating and too hot to touch for long. I left it running for about 2 hrs. and the temperature in the frig got to 45F before I turned it off (I had to go out and didn't want to leave it unattended. Now that I've turned it back on, I'm waiting to check the freezer temperature.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:11 AM
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You might have a clogged capillary tube in this. Check the nameplate for refrigerant type, if R12, you have a compressor that normally draws over about 3 amps. Put a amprobe one of the compressor leads, if well under 2 amp, that would confirm it. Still would cost over $100 to fix it, fridg may not be worth it.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:19 AM
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It is R12. I was thinking of converting it over to R134a but I don't have a pump to put it into the canister (I got one of those recycle canisters a long time ago.) I was thinking to maybe rent a pump or even buy one if I can find one not too expensive. I've got a pretty good vacuum pump that goes down to about 10 mm and a nitrogen tank to flush out the oil. I don't have a meter that can test that many amps although I've been wanting to get one.

Shouldn't the thermostat turn the compressor off if the frig reaches the right temperature?

Last edited by benj : 04-27-2012 at 03:54 AM.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:50 AM
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I would check the compressor current to verify clogged capillary, then cut the cap line and blow out the clog with high pressure gas, then vacumm the system, then replace the dryer. Now measure the low side pressure, should be less than 22 mm vacumm, if not, I would junk it. If ok, then re-charge with R134A.
Remember, this is still an energy sucker. A new fridg would pay for itself in 3 or 4 years due to the energy savings.
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:17 AM
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Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, the compressor blew out. I ran it for maybe 1 1/2 hours and the frig temp got down to 40F. The freezer was down below 20F. I turned it off but then decided to turn it on again before the compressor had cooled down. It made some scraping sounds and then seized and blew the fuse.

Would there be a place to get a used refrigerant recovery pump inexpensively?
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:43 AM
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They are hard to get and if you get a cheap one it may be bad. These pumps must be well protected with a good micro filter and a bypass to collect any oil sucked in, otherwise the compressor will seize.
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