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Model Number: TFX26ZPA(D?)WW Brand: GE Age: 5 - 10 years
I am getting H2o to icemaker. but not to the door dispensor.
Recently, when calling for water it has been making a noise which, to me, seemed to be the solonoid trying to engage - when it "unstuck" water would flow. I checked voltage( getting 120v) to both blue solinoids when pressing the "gimme some water darnit" button. - I did not check the voltage to the two red valves- im not sure how to sent the signal to them. I then checked resistance- 328OHM on both blue solonoids, and 183 OHM on both reds ( ice maker valves) I musta done something wrong- because if one of the blue solonoid is bad i would think I would get a differnet resistance? Any other suggestions??? It is a GE TFX26ZPA(D?)WW Additionally, ice type selector just stop functioning, I only get crushed now. From searching through some post here, it appears to be a solonoid. would you agree? Finally, this week the ref door (side by side) makes a loud clunk when just about closed. Is this the cam lifter? door does not appear yo lift during opening. freezer door does lift. thanks Ads By Google Related Models |
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I isolate the problem to the blue inlet solonoid. I did this by putting the lead for the blue side on the red side. when we called for water -presto
two questions can I just replace the inlet valves/solonoid (there are a total of 4) only one is bad second can I just use the red (icemaker) solonoid to open the inlet for both h2o and ice by doubling up the leads ( i.e. putting water and ice on ice solonoid ) |
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Now that I now which soloniod was "bad" I whacked it with a screwdriver handle and .... TA Dah - dude works like new.
put off the new valve purchase/install (for a least a little while) While the unit was pulled out- I decided to remove and flush the incoming H2O tube (plastic- it looked nasty- rust and dirt in h20) I put water and cotton in the removed line and blew it through the tube(using air compressor) about 5-6 times and it is clear again. |
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