[hammockprincess]

I have a hard time explaining anything electrical. The “reset” button in my fridge keeps turning off and my light goes out – hence the cooling of my fridge stops and things start defrosting in the freezer side. If I push the red reset button, the fridge clicks back on, but a short time later it goes out again.

Is this something I can replace myself? I'm not afraid - I'll be sure to unplug the fridge first .

I checked out your website and someone wrote about similar problems as mine. Is there any way you could tell me the part number that I need or could I order it from you? The thermal overload seems to be my problem. (I love my fridge and want to keep it working. )

This was the conversation that led me to think this was my problem: “This is a follow up to my previous post where the thermal overload on the compressor kept popping and the compressor wouldn't run. Turns out the relay had a bunch of loose parts inside, so that was definitely bad. I installed a new relay and overload kit (FSP #8201799) from my local parts store, and then the unit started to run. Actually it ran the best it has in years for the last few days. Then this evening I noticed the refrigerator side was warmer than it should be, and the freezer was staring to defrost again. And as before, the thermal overload was clicking off. The relay was still good, and by removing the thermal unit and jumping the red wire to that compressor pin, the compressor runs again.”

Your response: “The "Thermal Overload" senses two temperatures. The first is the temperature of the Compressor body, that is why it is mounted on the "Dome".
The second is the temperature of the wiring to the compressor hence excessive amperage draw.
By by-passing it,you remove the "SAFETY" factor, that is why you should not remove it.
The purpose of the run capacitor is to make it more efficient, it basically makes the compressor a "Multi-Phase" motor.”

Thank you for your help!