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Cannot find the defrost heater & thermostat in MCBR1020W

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I have a piece of crap Magic Chef Refrigerator made in China. Have the thing tore apart right now &

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Old 03-30-2012, 07:41 PM
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Exclamation Cannot find the defrost heater & thermostat in MCBR1020W
Model Number: MCBR1020W   Brand: Magic Chef   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I have a piece of crap Magic Chef Refrigerator made in China. Have the thing tore apart right now & cannot determine which is the defrost thermostat? Is the defrost heater at the base of the coils? SEVERE icing on coils which has now been defrosted. Since it is tore apart I was thinking of just replacing the defrost timer, defrost thermometer & defrost heater. Anything else?
Boy ... these things are real junk but I was severely limited in selection due to the width the refrigerator needs to fit into. Thanks!!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2012, 04:43 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Magic Chef MCBR1020W REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

Magic Chef definitely did not put much effort into the parts breakdown.
By looking at the parts breakdown and also searching the parts list I came up with the folowing.

which is the defrost thermostat?
Looks like it is AP4588628. In the parts breakdown it is shown just to the left of the evaporator coils. They call it a defrost thermometer.
It should be clipped onto the evaporator coils. When frozen it should measure 0 ohms. It opens just above freezing, also if it is deformed/bulged it should be replaced even if it measures OK.

Is the defrost heater at the base of the coils?
Yes, they show it just under the coils. It comes up as a AP4565009.
It should measure approximately 20 ohms.

Since it is tore apart I was thinking of just replacing the defrost timer, defrost thermometer & defrost heater. Anything else?
No that is pretty well the entire defrost system.
The timer is Item 28 in the parts breakdown and comes up as a AP4565008.

I would get the parts people to double check theses numbers.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:56 AM
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Default Worth Saving?

Thank you so much for your assistance. Considering this frige is slightly less than 2 years old would you think this is going to be an every 2-year fix? This refrigerator/freezer has had minimal use over the past couple years - just mainly as second fridge. Have replacement parts been made with any more quality than the original unit came with? Seems I'm seeing lots of posts with same issue as I'm having.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:23 AM
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Have replacement parts been made with any more quality than the original unit came with?
I do not know if the parts have been upgraded but usually the defrost components are pretty reliable.
You were probably just unlucky as with any part some of them do fail prematurely.
Also I do not know which one of the 3 parts actually failed.

At about $35.00 for each part it is probably worth your while to find out what failed so you can lower your repair costs.
Since the unit is pulled apart and no longer frozen up I would check the heater and the defrost thermostat then if they are OK I would replace the defrost timer.
You can check the defrost thermostat by holding its metal face onto an ice cube till it freezes. often you will hear a click. Check it carefully for any deformation.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:51 PM
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Default How to's....

Just ordered the defrost heater, thermostat and timer from your company. What I'm looking for now is some 'how to' instructions on replacing all three when I receive the parts on Wednesday. Thank you!
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:29 PM
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Default RESEND - Instructions for Replacing Parts

RESEND as I haven't gotten response just yet. Now received the defrost heater, thermostat and timer from your company. What I'm looking for now is some 'how to' instructions on replacing all three. Plus the defrost heater looks entirely different than the one I am replacing. Thank you!!
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:24 AM
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I apologize for not getting back to you.
I somehow missed your earlier post must have had my head up my you know what.

I do not have any info on installing parts in this particular unit so will wing it.

Timer (Item 28 in Section 1) should be easy as looks like it is under the unit.
Sometimes it is easier to remove the bracket that the timer is attached to and then remove the timer.

I cannot comment on the heater.
There is not a picture of what it should look like.
It would be best to call AppliancePartsPros on this.

On some units the thermostat just plugs in on others you have to hard wire it in.
To hard wire it use a couple wire nuts of the correct size.
Try to keep them away from the heater. Also orient them so they face down, this will keep water from the defrost out of them. Some folks also like to calk the open ends as an extra precaution.

I am off to the lake for a couple days and will be unavailable.
If you need more help it might be best to start a new post as when the board is busy other regulars do not have the time to check posts where someone else is already looking into solving the problem.
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Last edited by denman : 05-18-2012 at 03:26 AM.
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