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Please Help...Freezer/Refrigerator Not Cold....

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All, Have a KitchenAid KSRS25IKWH01 Side by Side Refrigerator/Freezer. It was bought in late 2001. (Manufacture date 05/01) The issues

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Old 03-26-2012, 02:53 PM
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Default Please Help...Freezer/Refrigerator Not Cold....
Model Number: KSRS25IKWH01   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: More than 10 years   

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All,
Have a KitchenAid KSRS25IKWH01 Side by Side Refrigerator/Freezer. It was bought in late 2001. (Manufacture date 05/01)

The issues probably started about a year ago. The refrigerator one day seemed to get warm for about 24hours (ice cream, ice, and butter melted\softened way up) and then after a short period of time it went back to a normal temp. Everything seemed fine, considered in our minds the kids left the door open..... so we pulled it out and cleaned condensor coils then put it all back.

Fast forward about 10 months and the ice maker (ice making part) stopped working entirely out of the blue. We were considering a new refrigerator but was hoping we could nurse it to the fall as we are planning a remodel of the kitchen at this time. Temperature seemed fine at this point.

Anyways just recently the refrigerator/freezer both warmed way up but in about 48-72 hours now it has not gotten cold at all. We have transferred food/etc to another refrigerator. We turned the refrigerator off for about four hours and turned it back on to the median range. After about 24 hours of no change we knocked it up one cooler number. Still No change in temperature ...no coldness at all.

I can see\hear the Condensor fan running and the condensor coils are clean. The compressor is cold to the touch.

What can I test\troubleshoot?

I am engineer and have a few meters, but need some guidance to figure if we can nurse the refrigerator to the fall or look for a replacement.

Thanks in advance,
Chris


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2012, 03:23 PM
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Default

Hi,

Is the compressor running?

If the compressor is running then you have some kind of sealed system problem.

With a sealed system problem it could be low or out of refrigerant, a restriction in the capillary tube or a week compressor.

Just my 2 cents,
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2012, 04:14 PM
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Default Compressor...

All,
The compressor is not running - no vibration or humm.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:18 PM
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Default Manual....

All,
Is there a manual available for this refrigerator that may give me a place to start or work my way through?

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:57 PM
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Hi Chris,

Just to add my 2 cents...

You have to have a simple multimeter to proceed with the further troubleshooting.

Unplug the fridge and remove the control box. Remove the orange wire from the freezer thermostat (the left one). Make sure this wire is not touching any other part and/or any metal surface. Measure the voltage between this wire and the ground. Normal reading suppose to be about 120 VAC.

If the reading is incorrect, replace the adaptive defrost control board (#6 at the diagram).

If the reading is correct, check for continuity between the terminal where the orange wire was connected to and the terminal where the red wire is connected to while the thermostat is On.

If there is no continuity, replace the thermostat.

If there is continuity, post the result and we will go further.

- The adaptive defrost control board Part number: AP3109394

Part number: AP3109394



- The freezer thermostat Part number: AP2984389

Part number: AP2984389



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool KSRS25IKWH01 SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:36 PM
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Default Test Results....

Gene\All,
There is continuity at the left most thermostat.

The voltage reading from orange wire at the left most thermostat is 104 Volts with my standard Craftsman multimeter. I tried another cheapy harbor freight multimeter I commonly use for automotive work and it read 107 Volts.

Craftsman voltage from the wall socket normally reads 123 Volts.

So is it the adaptive defrost control board?

Thanks for the help,
Chris
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:15 PM
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Hi Chris,

Such voltage reading looks suspicious, especially because under the load of the compressor it could go much lower. I would recommend to replace the ADC board.

Gene.
P.S. Did you hear any clicking sound from the compressor?
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:19 PM
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Default Thanks!

Gene,
With the orange wire disconnected I noticed a clicking noise. I thought it was coming from the ADC board board.

When the wire was connected no click noise.

I will order the board.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:29 PM
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Default Quick question..

Gene,
Was about to order the part when I read the PS part of your forum more closely and it got me a thinking.....

Out of curiousity, is there a way to test the compressor directly?

The compressor is cold and there is no hum from it. Will a compressor just go bad (stay cold) or do they usually just continue to run (get hot)
until they reach a temp limit and shut down?

Again thanks for the help,
Chris
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolomonMan View Post
...Out of curiousity, is there a way to test the compressor directly?...
Yes Chris, you can check the windings for continuity. You can find the instructions in one of our previous threads: GE refrigerator just clicks but does not cool Post the results.

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