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I have a 36" KitchenAid Built-in Refrigerator Model # KSSC42QMS01.
The Ice-maker has worked fine for years but once in a while when I completely empty the ice bin and put it back, sometimes it wont refill for 24+ hours. And sometimes I have to re-seat the ice bin.
But this time when I took the ice bin off to dump into a cooler on St Patrick's day and replaced the ice bin, ice has not come out since.
I have since checked the on / off laser eye switch and the placement of the ice bin.
I also took apart the whole ice-maker and disconnected the electrical. removed it form the freezer and let it defrost.
The problem seems to be that water is not entering the ice tray to freeze.
I looked at the Part Breakout but don't know what parts to replace.
Any Ideas
Any questions of what I did or I see just ask.
:confused: :confused: :confused:
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Hello,
I need you to look at something for me. Open the freezer door and press the flapper down that's located on the left wall. Without blocking the beam, I need to know what the light does. On constant, flashing? If it's flashing, how many flashes between the one second pause? We need to eliminate the optics before we can diagnose the ice maker.
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Here is a guide that will help you understand what you're looking at.
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Rank: Member
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I will check thanks for the help
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I've got a KitchenAid KSRS25RVMS02 with a dead icemaker. The optics check good per the 2-blink w/flapper out then steady w/flapper in procedure. Fill tube not frozen. Pulled icemaker, with it connected only 33.5 vac via L & N check. Disconnected and removed it from cabinet. Checked harness continuity good in black wire with inline fuse. In the box Molex connector, GRN/YEL wire was good to ground, White wire also good to ground. Tan wire goes to fill valve and has good continuity. BLK/WHT wire has only 33.5 vac. Where does the BLK/WHT wire supposed to get the 120 vac from? Looks like it comes from emmitter unit so do I need to replace that boards?? I'm stumped. Could a plug connector have developed internal resistance? All lights, fans, and indicators work perfectly. I'm hoping for some help on this from you experts. Thanks in advance, Patrick.
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Jerry I looked at it and it has the 2flashes then a one second when flap open and a solid when closed. I also checked the water filler it is not frozen.
SO what should I do next.
Also , when i close the flap and the light turns solid and wait, I hear a noise after a bout 10 seconds like a motor or gear moving for a second or two.
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Originally Posted by: chrisawol  Jerry I looked at it and it has the 2flashes then a one second when flap open and a solid when closed. I also checked the water filler it is not frozen.
SO what should I do next.
Also , when i close the flap and the light turns solid and wait, I hear a noise after a bout 10 seconds like a motor or gear moving for a second or two. Hello, The ice maker cycles rather slowly so when you hear the motor or gear noise, you should watch the harvest fingers on the unit to see if they are rotating. You may need to watch them with a small mirror as some are not where you can look directly at them. If they are not rotating, you probably need to replace the ice maker or the ice maker module.
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Originally Posted by: cessna180patrick I've got a KitchenAid KSRS25RVMS02 with a dead icemaker. The optics check good per the 2-blink w/flapper out then steady w/flapper in procedure. Fill tube not frozen. Pulled icemaker, with it connected only 33.5 vac via L & N check. Disconnected and removed it from cabinet. Checked harness continuity good in black wire with inline fuse. In the box Molex connector, GRN/YEL wire was good to ground, White wire also good to ground. Tan wire goes to fill valve and has good continuity. BLK/WHT wire has only 33.5 vac. Where does the BLK/WHT wire supposed to get the 120 vac from? Looks like it comes from emmitter unit so do I need to replace that boards?? I'm stumped. Could a plug connector have developed internal resistance? All lights, fans, and indicators work perfectly. I'm hoping for some help on this from you experts. Thanks in advance, Patrick. Hello, It is most probable that the board has failed but the possibility exists that the problem could be a poor electrical connection at a molex connector or a partially broken wire. Post your model number and I'll dig up a wiring diagram so I can tell you which connector and which pin should have your ice maker output voltage on it.
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Jerry, the model number is KSRS25RVMS02. Over the weekend I pulled the emitter board and jumped pins 3 and 4 in the connector, re-installed the icemaker, and it made perfect ice all weekend. Let me know if this looks right to you. I am now more than ever convinced that it is the board so I am ordering one. Thanks and I'll post my results when the new board is installed.
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Hello,
The part number for that emitter/receiver kit is [AP3137510].
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