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AutoDoc  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 21, 2012 2:39:14 PM(UTC)
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AutoDoc

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the over temp light comes on every few hours or so for the last week or so i had a bit of time yester day so i shut the unit down and took apart the freezer back wall and found the evaporator top was iced up at the top around the bimetal so i used a heat gun and mealted all the ice dried every thing put it back together and it started at 77 *f and later in the night i saw it around 22*f so i thought i found the problem today my wife had told me she had to reset again today freezer was around 35*f so i'm wondering could it be the bimetal and the defrost wire causing this issue is there any place else i should look im at work right now i told the wife to shut it down for a while and let it defrost by its self for a while and ill check it when i get home later
as i am at work right now i do not know if ice formed again i am just assuming it may have any help would be great also is there a service manual for this unit and parts catalog thanks in advance
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 22, 2012 2:49:25 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here is a manual
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=212
You may have to join the site to get it from the download section.
Registering is free and this is a good site for appl1ance manuals.

See the attachments for a couple tech sheets on this unit.

I doubt it is a defrost problem. For defrost to be the cause of high freezer temperatures the evaporator coils have to be iced/frosted to the point where the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.

Try running the diagnostics to see if anything fails.

This is a complicated unit and is probably best left to a pro unless the diagnosis ends up being fairly simple or you have electronics experience.

It uses a variable capacity compressor which further complicates things.
File Attachment(s):
KSSC48-1.pdf (1,106kb) downloaded 12 time(s).
KSSC48-2.pdf (1,222kb) downloaded 8 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
AutoDoc  
#3 Posted : Thursday, March 22, 2012 3:03:17 PM(UTC)
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thanks for the info i checked the codes in diag mode and bi metal was open i checked bi metal and heater and both showed open circuit so i am just going to order both and change them and see how it goes i left unit off for about 14 hrs than turned back on it did cool than frost back up and warm up again by the end of the afternoon so i be leave the place to start is the heater
Simon / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, March 22, 2012 3:15:42 PM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

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Hello.

I am joining Danman's opinion - it's not the defrost problem.

Sounds like there is a controls or the sealed system failure.

Check the warranty (it still may be good).

Post the results.
AutoDoc  
#5 Posted : Thursday, March 22, 2012 3:35:40 PM(UTC)
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why would the heater show no resistance (this is with a good Fluke meter ) i understand that the bimetal needs to be cold to show closed circuit when running the diagnostic every thing did check as ok what else could cause the issue if the unit is shut down than turned back on it cools until the evaporator frost up than starts acting up
any more incite would be helpful
denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, March 23, 2012 1:27:08 AM(UTC)
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denman

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The heater should indicate approximately19 to 27 Ω.

Also did you short the meter leads together before doing the reading. This tells you if the meter is OK and if there is any zero offset.

Take a look at the frost pattern on the evaporator coils.
After an hour or so of on time it should be a fairly even.

You said that only the top of the evaporator was iced up so the defrost must have been working or the entire evaporator coil would have been iced/frosted over.

If as you say the heater is shot then replace it and see what happens.
As I said this is a complicated unit and who knows, they may be doing something weird with the variable capacity compressor control if it senses an open heater circuit.
I am not sure that it even looks at the heater resistance but since it is shot it is worth replacing.
They do look at it in diagnostics so they may well also look at it during run.

If the heater replacement does nothing then try the following.
After you do another power disconnect and the unit is cooling down check that the evaporator fan, compressor fan and compressor are running. Also take note at what speed they are running. Again I am not sure but you may be able to get an idea of the compressor speed by listening and also feeling the vibration. Then when it messes up again see if any of them has changed.

I am off to the cabin for the weekend but will be sure to check your post again when I get back.
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