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Model Number LocatorFor the following I used the TFXPRBEWW unit.
Is the unit cycling or is it on all the time (other then perhaps when it goes into a defrost cycle)
It looks like the fresh food section temperature regulating is just manually adjusting a vent opening (not thermostatically controlled). So if it does cycle check the freezer temperature, it should be 0 to 5 degrees F. If it is higher then odds are that the thermostat is the culprit.
Also check that the vent lower down between the sections is clear on both sides so that there will be proper cold air circulation.
If it does not cycle, remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils.
Check that the evaporator/freezer fan is running. It is required to circulate cold air in the unit.
If they only have frost in one area, usually where the freon enters the coils then you probably have a sealed system problem. This will be an expensive repair as you need a pro. Often it makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit.
Note: On proviso on the above is that the unit/compressor must run for at least a couple hours. If you do this shortly after a defrost cycle you could mis-diagnose the problem.
If the evaporator coils are heavily iced/frosted over then you have a defrost problem. This will effect the fresh food section first and later the freezer.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 257 in Section 4) till the fans and compressor turn off.
Usually there is a hole in the cover to let you do this without dismantling the cover etc.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 230 in Section 2) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 240 in Section 2) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.