[jwsbillie]

Gene,
Thanks for your help. I will replace the motherboard and both thermistors.
Bill

[SweetSwede]

Originally Posted by Gene

bohemian,

There is no defrost timer in your fridge. The defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge.

Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost heater" terminal (J9) on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.

If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.

If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the defrost thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity.

If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced.

- The part number for the main control board is AP3950129

- The part number for the defrost heater is AP3183868

- The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP3884317

- The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407

Gene.

Hi Gene,

My refrigerator is the GE GSS25LGPACC. Evaporator coils are completely frosted. I have replaced the defrost heater and defrost thermostat--no change. Is the procedure you outline above the correct way to test my motherboard? If it is bad you say both thermisters have to be replaced. One of mine is hard wired into the evaporator fan--do I need to replace the fan also or just splice in a new thermistor? Fan appears to be running ok.

[Gene]

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

[dstankus]

First off, thanks very much for your time and effort in responding to everyone!

My situation:

Kenmore 25359683991 side-by-side. Monday morning I noticed that the Fridge side was noticeably warm. Not hot, but too warm for a fridge; I'd guesstimate 60-65 degrees. Freezer is fine; ice dry and hard, no softness in any of the frozen stuff.

After some research, I checked the damper on the fridge side and it's open. Also checked the defrost cycle on the freezer by manually turning the defrost timer, and that seems to be working as well; there's no frost on the inside of the freezer, and after the defrost cycle has run, there are little droplets of water visible on the back of the freezer compartment.

When I had the damper removed on the fridge side the fan was still running on the freezer side, but there was no air blowing out of the opening on the fridge side (the opening that the damper was covering.

I'm thinking that somewhere in the airflow on the freezer there's something that's blocking or otherwise not allowing the air to be blown from freezer to fridge.

I've looked at the exploded diagram for my model;

Full Diagram | SearsPartsDirect.com

and can't see what to check next.

Appreciate any hints/guidance before I start taking things apart all willy-nilly!


Thanks,
Dave

[JKulp42757]

I have a GE PROFILE PSC23SGRDSS

Two days ago I went to open the fridge, and the display was reading 100 degrees! And I'm sure it was, as I had cans of biscuits that exploded, curdled milk, and sticks of butter that completely melted.

The freezer was reading 6 degrees (usually reads 0), so I was a little worried about it to, but figured it was a little warmer because the fridge was so hot.

All I did was set the fridge to cool to 37 degrees and closed it up. I didn't want to unplug it and risk losing the freezer stuff too. Over the next several hours the fridge slowly cooled back down to 37 degrees, and that's where it's been.

My guess is maybe the defrost thermostat needs replaced...but I'm not sure what the first step should be.

Thanks

[Gene]

It is hard to say at this time what can cause it. One of possibilities is if the lights inside the refrigerator did stay "on" all the time. Watch it close and keep in touch.

Gene.

[JKulp42757]

Thanks Gene.

Well, so far, so good. It's still working as it should.

[dstankus]

Bumping up my earlier post in case anyone has any suggestions....

------------------------------

My situation:

Kenmore 25359683991 side-by-side. Monday morning I noticed that the Fridge side was noticeably warm. Not hot, but too warm for a fridge; I'd guesstimate 60-65 degrees. Freezer is fine; ice dry and hard, no softness in any of the frozen stuff.

After some research, I checked the damper on the fridge side and it's open. Also checked the defrost cycle on the freezer by manually turning the defrost timer, and that seems to be working as well; there's no frost on the inside of the freezer, and after the defrost cycle has run, there are little droplets of water visible on the back of the freezer compartment.

When I had the damper removed on the fridge side the fan was still running on the freezer side, but there was no air blowing out of the opening on the fridge side (the opening that the damper was covering.

I'm thinking that somewhere in the airflow on the freezer there's something that's blocking or otherwise not allowing the air to be blown from freezer to fridge.

I've looked at the exploded diagram for my model;

Full Diagram | SearsPartsDirect.com

and can't see what to check next.

[Gene]

Pull the refrigerator out of the wall, remove the rear cover and the bottom front grill and make sure the condenser (#1 on the diagram) is clean and the motor next to the compressor is running fine.

Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how the evaporator is covered with snow. Post the results.

What is the exact temperature in both compartments?

Gene.

[jeffrey_benjamin]

Originally Posted by karen54

Its's a Kenmore Model # 59679142990

try setting the refrigerator control to 1 this will allow more air to go into the refrigerator section