[hmccants]

hi gene,

I have a GE side by side model # GSS25JFMD WW. the defroster coils in the freezer completley froze up. i disconnected the the wire harness on the bottom left of the main board on the back of the fridge--and Ohmed the defrost wire (best i can tell) with the orange N on the harness on the bottom right of the board and it is reading 22.3 ohms. so i guess from what you posted earlier i'm going to have to get a new board. when i put my model # in the diagram section link from page 1, the board it is showing looks nothing like the one on my fridge. do you have access to or know the part #'s for the board and i guess the thermistors?

thanks
howard

[Gene]

The main control board you needed is shown as #801 on the diagram.

- The part number for the main control board is AP4297272

Gene.

[Rivergoat]

New to the forums; looking at this sticky, these are the symptoms indeed. It's a neighbor's Whirlpool. I was told GD55HG for a model (haven't looked a the badge myself); this number doesn't come up except as a Gibson disposal, although I saw an old craigslist post using this as a model number indicating the unit is from 2002, so perhaps it's just an outdated number?

At any rate, I cleaned under the unit (a side-by-side) finding a LOT of dirt covering the coils. Also cleaned out a huge frost/ice build-up in the freezer section. Turning it back on, the fridge section isn't that cold, and before thinking a defrost timer or other specific parts, I thought I should pull the freezer panel off and look at the coils in there. Perhaps the underside dirt caused those to ice up so badly as to degrade performance?

On a Magic Chef fridge a couple of years ago, it was a power issue that shorted the evap fan, and replacing that fixed the trouble, but here on the Whirlpool I just wanted to confirm that a de-ice after the cleaning may be all it needs....?

[Gene]

After a refrigerator has been completely defrosted it takes about 24 hours to get to the right temperature.

In case you need more accurate advice post the complete model number of the refrigerator.

Gene.

[jhill]

The baffle door assembly on my Kitchenaid refrigerator does not seem to be working, thus the freezer is cold and frig warm. I unscrewed the baffle door assembly and pulled it out. Cold air is blowing through the hole. I can open the baffle door manually, but then it rotates twice, ending in the closed position. Is the opening and closing of this baffle controlled by the thermistor? If so, should replacing the thermistor correct the problem?

[amnhac81]

i don't know why suction line has snow and Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm ,
please tell me which part bad

[jhill]

Gene,

I have a KitchenAid KSSP42QJS00

[Jasmati]

I have a Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator (Model #ED25GWXXN00). The problem started with the refrigerator not cooling properly and then the freezer doing the same. We have done the following so far:
1) Cleaned the condenser coils (they were filled with dust)
2) Checked for ice on the evaporator coils. There was some, so I turned the unit off to let it melt. Recent checks show only light level of frost forms but no ice.
3) Verified both the evap fan and the condenser fan were running.
4) Advanced the defrost motor until the compressor turned off. It properly turned back on at the appropriate time (~30 min).
4) Also, did a continuity check of the defrost motor (continuity changed between pins as it advanced through the two stages)
5) Continuity checked the defrost thermostat (closed at cold, open at higher temp)
6) Continuity checked defrost heater. (~20 ohm)
7) Verified the door switch and light switch.
8) Operational and continuity check the refrigerator control (continuity check indicated 0/infinity did not have the long gradual change like a typical rheostat)
9) Verified the baffle mechanically changes as the freezer control is adjusted (changes flow into refrigerator section).
10) Verified no blockage in flow paths between sections

Currently I have the refrigerator running and the freezer appears to be running well (froze a cup of water…I do not have a temp gauge). The refrigerator control is set to 3 (middle) and the Freezer control is set to A - Warmer (permit max flow to refrigerator). The evaporator coils are lightly frosted….no ice. Defroster appears to be working properly. Both fans are running. The compressor is running and very warm to the touch.

However, the refrigerator is not getting cold…only slightly cool. The air flow into the refrigerator appears to be slow. I think that I need more flow to get it to cool down properly. The refrigerator has been running for nearly a day. I have just adjusted the controls to 4 – A to see if it will get the refrigerator to cold.

Any other ideas? Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Dan

[woodchuckie]

I would go ahead and set the fridge temp to max cold to get the damper open all the way.
Your evaporator fan may not be running as fast as it should. Make sure the fan spins freely when it's off and you spin it. Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Unplug the fan and Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Make sure the connectors are not corroded.



Make sure the light frosting on the coils is covering the entire coil. Anything less would indicate low freon.

[Jasmati]

I think you may have discovered the possible problem. After removing the fan the continuity measurement read 47 ohms. Is this enough resistance to slow the fan down?

The frost is in general covers all of the coils. Maybe heavier on the upper coils.

I will also lower the refrigerator temp setting. But it sounds like I will likely be buying a new fan.

Thanks,
Dan