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I am having this problem with my Maytag Model M1TXEGMYB00 fridge. I took off the back panel and cleared a

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  #1941 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2014, 05:56 PM
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Default Little Helpplease... and THANK YOU

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I am having this problem with my Maytag Model M1TXEGMYB00 fridge.

I took off the back panel and cleared a bunch of frost/ice off the back wall and coils, removed the defrost thermostat and tested it after putting it in a glass of ice water for 20 minutes and it had no continuity. Replaced it and reassembled everything. 24 hours later the fridge is cooling a bit (I have a liquid thermometer in a glass of water that reads 48 degrees. There is nothing in the refridgerator that need to be cooled so I don't know what is the next step. If I take off the back panel tomorrow after 48 hours and there is more frost/ice, where do I go from there?

Grayson-----

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  #1942 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2014, 08:32 PM
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Default Fridge too warm, no frost on freezer coils

Hi guys,
I am having a similar problem to one I encountered before (see this post and reply). Replacing the thermistor on the coils resolved that problem and it worked well for nearly 2 years.

Now I have a similar issue - freezer seems ok, but the temp in the fresh food section isn't cooling down to what it should, even when I turn the control knob up all the way. However, this time I do not have any frost on the coils in the back of the freezer section. The fan just above the coils seems to be working fine. Could this be an issue with the damper? How do I check that? Or could it be something else?

Any advice on what to check? My model number is GE GBS22HBPACC.
Thanks!
-Tim

Last edited by walt0132 : 02-26-2014 at 08:45 PM.
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  #1943 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2014, 09:28 PM
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I ve got same problem, i hope this will resolved
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  #1944 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2014, 02:02 PM
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Thanks for the input all! I changed the defrost thermostat. Nothing. The fan was on so it seemed ok. Appliance repair guy said it wasn't turning enough to cool the refrigerator properly, thus the frost buildup. The fans lately have been made poorly (replacement $$$) and installed a better model. Within an hour my ice machine was producing and within 3 had my fridge at 38 degrees on my medium setting. Good luck everyone!
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  #1945 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2014, 07:51 PM
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Exclamation Same but not the same issue

Hi, my name is Mario and I have a problem with my Maytag MFI2568AES refrigerator. I have the same issue, refrigerator is too warm, freezer is fine.

Here are the symptoms:
- There is a buildup of frost in the evaporator coils.
- The evaporator fan SEEMS (I'm not sure) not to be working.
- Ice maker does not work.
- All buttons on display works
- When pushing the dispenser yoke (either on water mode or ice mode), it does not make a move, nor the dispenser sounds, nor the motor of the ice dispenser sounds. Furthermore, when LOCK mode is on, when pushing the dispenser yoke, it does not make a beep.
- When connecting and disconnecting the refrigerator, ice dispenser door flaps one time.
- When opening the rear part of the refrigerator (where the compressor is), the start-dev (Part number: AP5787784) was burnt and pretty damaged.

Although I replaced the start-dev all the symptoms above are still going on.
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  #1946 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2014, 05:58 PM
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Hello. I have an Amana ABB2524DES with the evaporator freezing up. It takes about two months from me manually defrosting the coil to the fridge losing it's cool. The defrost thermostat shows closed when I do a circuit test on the control panel and the heater gets hot. the heater has 27.5 ohms of resistance. I am able to enter forced defrost mode and do a short run period test which lasts about 15 minutes. During this time the heater gets hot but won't melt the totally frozen coil(probably normal). It seems to me from reading this thread that two months is a long time in between manually defrosting, so I wonder if the defrost circuit is working sometimes or marginally. The element gets hot but it doesn't glow at all. Is there something else I can test before I replace the control board, it doesn't feel right to condemn it since all service tests and modes work properly. Thanks for any help and for this site.
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  #1947 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2014, 09:56 AM
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Default Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.

First I cleaned out the back fan and compartment to ensure air flow was good in the back (more of a preventative maintenance issue). The I emptied out the freezer and pulled off the back panel and found everything frozen! So I thawed it off with a hair dryer and wiped everything down to clean it out and keep it dry. After putting it back together I noticed the cool air flow right away. Both frig and freezer are working fine now. I figure everything froze up over time because people didn't close the freezer door all the way. Thanks Repair forum!
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  #1948 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2014, 10:31 AM
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Default My solution

Hi all.
My problem wound up being the defrost fan which drives the cold air up into the refrigerator portion. It was less than $35.00 & took 5 minutes to replace.

I had to remove it and apply a 120v to it using a handmade tool to plug in the electrical outlet, and alligator clips on the other end. I just used an old cord, and bought the alligator clips.

I found that the fan would not start on its own. I had to flick the fan blade to get it to run. It'd run for a moment, "limping" along and then die. I repeated the process 4 or 5 times. I then called them up and explained what happened. They said that I needed to replace the part.

It did take some time working through the back of the freezer to figure out what was going on.
Hth!
Good luck.
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  #1949 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2014, 07:22 PM
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GE Profile Mod#PFS22MISBWW. I replaced the main control board and now the temp is still sitting at 74 degrees. I hear compressor running but no cooling 24 hours later. Temp is the same for freezer and frig. What else could be wrong? Condenser fan is spinning nicely now though. It was only spinning slow only after I gave it a nudge before board replacement. I don't hear any clicking noise and never have this time. I replaced overload relay 2 years ago when it was clicking with no cooling though. I am tired of troubleshooting this...oh and the serial is RL050968 (PDF22MIS/PDF22SIS)

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  #1950 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2014, 02:37 AM
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Feel the compressor, if vibrating but no cooling and the condenser motor is running, you have refrigeration problems, Freon leak/bad compressor.
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