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My Whirlpool Gold fridge (Model: GX5FHDXVB04) has a reoccurring problem with the fridge warming up while the freezer is still

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  #1901 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:10 PM
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Default Reoccurring problem with Whirlpool fridge frosting up

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My Whirlpool Gold fridge (Model: GX5FHDXVB04) has a reoccurring problem with the fridge warming up while the freezer is still cold. I empty the fridge and defrost it for 12 hours and then plug it back in. The fridge works for a few weeks (though the time in between problems is getting shorter) and then I discover the fridge is warm again.

From reading the forum it looks like I have some sort of problem with my fridge defrosting. Any advice?

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  #1902 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 05:08 PM
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Hello,

How it's working now?

If it's fine then you have to wait until it will start to do it again.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Whirlpool GX5FHDXVB04 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

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  #1903 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2013, 11:38 PM
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Check on this refrigerator guide and make sure following this list
Refrigerator Buying Guide in India - PriceCheckIndia Blog
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  #1904 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:49 PM
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The fridge is acting up again

Frigidaire PHSC39EESS5

The temp got up to 60 degrees in the refrigerator section while staying super cold in the freezer.

I checked the airflow path and all is good. Removed the cover in the freezer to check the evaporator coil and it looks fine. I power cycled the fridge and replaced the temperature sensor with a spare I had from last time. Did not fix it so I then removed the cover over the damper. While adjusting the refrigerator temperature the door did not move. I pulled it open by hand and could feel the cold air blowing. When the temp got down, the damper closed the door. I got the temp back up and while I can hear the stepper motor the door does not open again. I did it a few times with same results.

Does this sound like a known issue with these dampers? It can close but not open?

Thanks
Darius
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:55 AM
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Default diffuser is no longer available, can I use alternate part?

I have a Kitchenaid fridge (KSBP25FJSS00), and the diffuser is no longer available online (the only site that has it appears to be a scam). The fridge isn't cooling, and I'm pretty sure the plastic inside the diffuser broke, and the shutter slides back and forth.

All the diffusers look pretty similar, can you suggest an alternative part number?
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  #1906 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2013, 03:57 PM
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I may have a similar problem to this. I noticed my freezer was getting colder than normal but my fridge is no longer cool enough even after I turned the fridge setting to the coldest possible. I went to the link in the first post to enter my model number but it only shows me parts. I can't seem to find any diagrams. I have a Kenmore Elite 253.74223700 fridge. Hopefully I can get some help with this.

Thanks a lot.

edit: Okay I got some diagrams from talking to an online chat person. I found the defrost timer so I turned the dial. It had lots of small clicks and then a loud click at which point I stopped. So now I'm playing the waiting game to open the freezer. Is this sizzling noise easily determined to a person who may not know exactly what it sounds like?

edit 2: I heard absolutely nothing in the freezer which means my timer is okay? One thing I did notice though is when I took down the housing that has the light and the timer in it, there is an opening between the fridge roof and the freezer floor that is lined with Styrofoam and it has ice completely blocking it. Does this further reenforce that it is the defrost heater or thermostat? I have a multimeter but I don't think it has continuity as an option. It's a crappy Cen-Tec or something from Harbor Freight that I got as a gift.

edit 3: I finally got the back panel off from inside the freezer and there was able to chip away that big chunk of ice. Hopefully that will buy me some time while I figure out which part is bad.

Last edited by RUsum1 : 06-21-2013 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:15 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Refrigerator 25374223700 - AppliancePartsPros.com

If you go to the Sears parts site they probably have actual parts breakdown diagrams. Unfortunately they do not share these with other part suppliers.

See the attachment for your tech sheet.

Is this sizzling noise easily determined to a person who may not know exactly what it sounds like?
Not a great way to tell if it is defrosting as it depends if water actaully drips onto the defrost heater and that may not always happen.

I heard absolutely nothing in the freezer which means my timer is okay?
By hearing nothing I am assuming you mean that the compressor and fans shut off, see my below blurb on troubleshooting defrost problems.

Does this further reenforce that it is the defrost heater or thermostat?

Yes it could.
May also be that the defrost drain tube is blocked or partially blocked and water from the defrost is not draining out fast enough.

I have a multimeter but I don't think it has continuity as an option.
If it is a true multimeter it will have the ability to read resistance (ohms) which is better than continuity. It is like comparing a gauge to an idior light in a car. I also added a blurb about meter usage at the end of this post.

I finally got the back panel off from inside the freezer and there was able to chip away that big chunk of ice.
Be careful when chipping in that area. The evaporator coils are just aluminum and if you put a hole in them the unit is toast.

Troubleshooting Defrost Problems.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo. If not replace the timer.

Meter Usage

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf 74223700.pdf (356.7 KB, 7 views)
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Last edited by denman : 06-23-2013 at 02:25 AM.
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  #1908 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2013, 07:08 PM
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To respond to some of your responses

The ice that I chipped away was not on any of the aluminum fins. There is a hole between the fridge and freezer that is lined with Styrofoam and it was completely blocked by this ice. That's what I chipped away (while trying not to damage the styrofoam).

I'll have to take a picture of my freezer when I remove the back plate. Even with the diagram I'm not exactly sure which wire I'm supposed to remove to test for resistance.

Maybe my defrost drain tube is clogged. Ever since I can remember, water would eventually pool at the bottom of my fridge below the veggie drawers which I would soak up with a towel to get rid of. I don't know if there is an easy way to access this tube to see if it's clogged. The outside back of the fridge doesn't seem to have anything to remove so I would probably have to remove something from the inside of the fridge.

Just for my own curiosity, is it common for a fridge that is less than four years old to have a timer, heater, or thermostat go bad suddenly? Maybe this is a known issue with Kenmore Elite?
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:30 AM
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Default Kitchenaid KSRS27FGSS13 refrigerator not cold enough

The refrigerator side of my KSRS27FGSS13 at best gets to 46 F when set to full cold.
Freezer is fine. Ice maker working like a champ.
New damper installed. Lower vent is not blocked
I have watched the evaporator defrost. Coils when cold are all covered in frost.
The defrost control board has nothing to turn clockwise to override the cycle.
Door closers are new and the door gaskets are fine so no major air leaks.
It had a bad fridge side thermostat replaced last year. At that time it was freezing all of the food on the top shelf of the fridge.
The evaporator fan seems to only come on if the freezer setting is pegged to the coldest setting.
The evaporator fan seems to blow fine but there is not a great airflow out of the damper above the top shelf. No obstructions to the vents or behind the freezer panels. Is the cold air circulation supposed to be from the fan up through the duct work, through the damper and then return to the freezer through the lower fridge vent?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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  #1910 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2013, 11:43 PM
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Got same problem but i cleared from this site post your queries and get solved the queries Refrigerator Price List | Fridge Prices in India | Refrigerator Models
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