[Wesley426]

I was hoping someone could lend an opinion on my refrigerator issue.

i have a GE GSH25SGPCSS and today noticed the fridge side was warm but the freezer was plenty cold. the frige was 70 degrees. thats when i noticed the door cam seems to be worn causing the door to sit too low and the door switch was not engaging. thats the first problem i found.

There is also another problem as the damper was closed. sometimes it opens sometimes it does not. I pulled out the temp sensor and measured 5k at room temp and 16k in ice water so i think that is ok. It seems to be pointing to the main control board do you agree?

right now the damper is open so i put the sensor in a cup of ice water expecting it to close. It has not yet closed with the temp setting for the fridge on the warmest (1) setting.

any help you could provide would be appreciated. i just wanted to get a 2nd opinion before ordering parts.

thanks,

Wesley

[Wesley426]

of course now it seems to be working fine when i warm the temp sensor it will open damper and when i put it in ice water it closes damper.

problem seems to be intermittant.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Wesley426

...i noticed the door cam seems to be worn causing the door to sit too low and the door switch was not engaging...

Hi Wesley,

Most likely that was the cause of the problem.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for GE GSH25SGPCSS Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[Wesley426]

Thanks for the reply Gene.

Do you think the light was the entire problem? What about the damper issue? Does the damper not open when it thinks the door is open?

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Wesley426

...Does the damper not open when it thinks the door is open?...

Yes, it will stay closed.

Gene.

[Wesley426]

Thanks again. Ill get a new cam follower and adjust the door.

[Gene]

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

[MiaDramaQueen]

Hi Gene, I have spent most of the night and day reading this thread. I have a 2004 GE side by side fridge/freezer. Model #GSS22WGPDBB. I noticed yesterday my fridge was warm but freezer was cold. I checked seals and made sure there were no blockages preventing air flow both were fine. I turned temp setting to highest setting and kept the doors closed. 10 hours later no change. At first I thought it was the diffuser (damper) because I noticed that no cold air was coming into the fridge. But it did feel a bit colder at the bottom of the fridge than the top- it still wasn't as cold as it usually is just a bit colder than the top... not sure if this means anything but I thought I should mention it. I noticed that the diffuser (damper) doors were constantly opening and closing (once every minute or so) even though the fridge was still warm. From what I read in other posts those doors should stay open until the fridge reaches proper temperature. Not sure if that is true. I read posts were people forced the doors to stay open (as a temp fix until they got a new damper) so based on that I put a stick between the doors and it stayed open. 6 hours later the fridge was basically the same as it was before- but now the icecream in the freezer had softened. I immediately took the stick out- figuring I was losing the cold from the freezer in to the very warm fridge. I waited and re-read your thread and based on it, I decided to empty the freezer and check the evaporator coils. I took off the back panel inside the freezer and sure enough they were filled with frost- completely frozen. I searched for the defrost timer but after an extensive search I dont think mine is where you suggested- based on searches I think my fridge might have it as part of the motherboard? My fridge isn't very high tech- but the temp settings are digital. Since I was not able to find it I just unplugged the fridge and I am now letting it defrost on its own with the doors open. Note: I did check the evaporator fan and condenser fan both turn on no problem. Based on the frozen coils in the freezer, what do you think the problem is? I am ready to order the defrost heater ($29) and defrost thermostat ($8) and just replace them both. I don't have a meter to check them and I figure rather than buying one I could just buy the parts since it is likely that it is one of these that has gone bad. Right? What is your opinion? Should I do something else prior to buying these parts? Do you think it is best to buy a meter? Is it possible it is my defrost timer? If so, if my defrost timer is in the motherboard does that mean I have to call for service repair or can I do this myself? Should I replace the diffuser as well? Also I keep reading about a thermister but I can't seem to find it on the parts diagram - where is it and should I replace that as well?

[Gene]

Hello,

I believe the best way is to buy a simple multimeter (less than $20) and perform some tests instead of throwing money on parts. Very possible that you'll use that meter in some troubleshooting later.

The tests are very simple. You can find the instructions on third page of this thread, in the post addressed to bohemian.

- The main control board Part number: WR55X10942

- The defrost heater kit Part number: WR51X10101

- The thermistor (they all are identical) Part number: WR55X10025

- The overtemperature thermostat Part number: WR50X10068

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for GE GSS22WGPDBB Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[tfrink]

hi. i have a GE model GSH22JSTCSS with the problem described: freezer cold, fridge warm, no air circulation. there was frost on the back panel, i removed it and the coils are frozen over. before i start worrying about the defrost heater and/or motherboard (appears i have no defrost timer on this fridge), i did notice the top vent in the freezer had gotten covered. could this blockage have caused the frosting up of the coils, or is it definitely the defrost system?