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Hello Bradley, You are on the right track. Most likely the evaporator fan motor is the culprit. - The evaporator

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  #1821 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2013, 11:04 AM
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Hello Bradley,

You are on the right track. Most likely the evaporator fan motor is the culprit.

- The evaporator fan motor Part number: 12002744

Part number: 12002744


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  #1822 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:49 PM
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I went ahead and bought that part today before seeing your reply. Good thing your reply came back as a thumbs up. The part I got looks a little different, but had the correct model number on it. It doesn't have the plastic housing around the entire thing, just around the motor itself. I just finished installing it, but the clearance isn't correct. I was able to make it work (by not screwing the screws in all the way for the fan housing) where its not really hanging there, but its not really tight either.

I was thinking of buying the updated fan blade or simply drilling the hole a little deeper on the old one. It seems I just need a couple millimeters of extra clearance so the fan doesn't rub when the housing is completely tightened down. It seems the fan would be a bit less noisy if the housing were snug.

Should I drill out the old fan blade to allow clearance, or just order the updated fan blade?
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  #1823 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:24 PM
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Default had reapir guy change mother board fridge is warm freezer cold

Hi Gene,
Had a repair guy here on Sunday the fridge is cool not cold where its keeping just milk and eggs in there for how long i don't know its just that i put a defrosted chicken in there last night and it was not cold to the touch when i took it out and i had some cooked food that went bad. there was ice on the coil when he opened it. He replaced the mother board said that was the problem but after 2 days the fridge is not COLD.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
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  #1824 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 12:28 PM
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Default Refrigerator still warm freezer is cold after reapir guy replaced mother board

Hi Gene,
Had a repair guy here on Sunday the fridge is cool not cold where its keeping just milk and eggs in there for how long i don't know its just that i put a defrosted chicken in there last night and it was not cold to the touch when i took it out and i had some cooked food that went bad. there was ice on the coil when he opened it. He replaced the mother board said that was the problem but after 2 days the fridge is not COLD.
I just called him to come out and look again. I think he is a "faulty repair guy" he took the box back and the "faulty part" with him i don't know if the part was new I think he reuses the same box for All cusotmers.

What should I ask him when he shows up. Thank you vry much for you time.


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  #1825 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 01:04 PM
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my refrigerator has 2 doors. the freezer is ok but the other side is warm. the refrigerator has cold air when you leave the freezer's door open and when you push the ice dispenser.
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  #1826 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Does the evaporator fan stop or just the air is not circulating with the freezer door closed?

Gene.
How the reapir guyis here right now he repalced mother board on Sunday and and the coils are frozen again. Can soemone please help me
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  #1827 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmntim View Post
How the reapir guyis here right now he repalced mother board on Sunday and and the coils are frozen again. Can soemone please help me
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

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  #1828 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthew06 View Post
my refrigerator has 2 doors. the freezer is ok but the other side is warm. the refrigerator has cold air when you leave the freezer's door open and when you push the ice dispenser.
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

What did you mean: "when you push the ice dispenser"?

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  #1829 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmntim View Post
How the reapir guyis here right now he repalced mother board on Sunday and and the coils are frozen again. Can soemone please help me

Hi Gene The fan was running anyway here is the latest development. He cmae back and adjusted the temperature control. Sitill did not work. So he said the termostat needing replacing. He said he called GE and the part would take 7-12 days to get so since we needed the refrigerator he would give us back our money $240.00 plus he wanted his Mothe Board back. So I asked for my original one that he said was faulty. LOw and behold after he replaced my "faulty Mother Board" and left the refrigerator is now working. Thanks for you help. The model number by the way is GBS20KPAWN GE brand
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  #1830 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 03:42 PM
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I'm glad it's up and running. If there is anything else we can help you with, drop us a line.

Gene.
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