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You are right about this plug. I reviewed all pictures available on the web and nowhere this plug is shown.

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  #1801 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2012, 05:54 PM
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You are right about this plug. I reviewed all pictures available on the web and nowhere this plug is shown.

I'm going to transfer this information to APP research department and someone will contact you in a few days.

Gene.

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Last edited by Gene : 01-03-2013 at 10:58 AM.
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  #1802 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2012, 11:29 AM
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In the other thread: How to force my refrigerator into defrost cycle which you opened on 12/20, in the post dated 12/21 you said that everything is working fine after you replaced the ADC, while in the current thread you saying that you having problems to install the new ADC.

So, which information is correct?

Gene.
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  #1803 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 05:38 PM
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Wink Amana Model ABB2222FEB2

Hi Gene,

I tried to follow your original post, but I don't seems to have the same parts as you describe. I couldn't find a wiring diagram for my model number, but I did take off the back freezer panel (interior) and everything was frozen. I defrosted the coils and cleaned things up, but I can't find a defrost timer, to see if that was the problem. I took off the back panel (exterior) and couldn't find anything there.

So...can you help point me in any direction??? I'm pretty good at solving things, but not if there not there. Is this one of the refrigerators operated electronically that you mentioned?

Thanks,
Deborah
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  #1804 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 10:55 AM
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Hi Deborah,

There is no defrost timer in your refrigerator. The defrost operates by the control board (#5 at the diagram).

You have to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat (#10 & #14 at the diagram) for continuity. The defrost thermostat must be ice cold at that time.

If there is nothing wrong with these two parts, replace the control board.

- The defrost heater Part number: 12729128

Part number: 12729128



- The defrost thermostat Part number: W10165425

Part number: W10165425



- The control board Part number: 12868513

Part number: 12868513



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Maytag ABB2222FEB2 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

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  #1805 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2012, 01:27 PM
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Default New Frigidaire freezer fine Water in door and fridge not cooling

We just bought our fridge yesterday got it home and the fridge portion is not cooling. It did get down to 33 over night but all day it has been staying around 53 and the water in the door is not chilled. The ice makers are working fine and the freezer is staying cold. I have no Idea what the problem can be...Do you have any ideas?
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:44 PM
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Hello,

Normally it takes about 24 hours for a refrigerator to maintain proper temperature.

If you believe there is something wrong and this is a brand new refrigerator then don't do anything and call the manufacturer for the warranty service.

Gene.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:02 PM
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Default same as topic

Model: Kenmore 596.75509400

This just started yesterday after I woke to find that someone had left the fridge door cracked all night long. I figured that after taking off the back interior panel in the freezer I would find ice caked up inside there, thaw it out, and be back in business. That didn't happen.

Some frost, but no excessive buildup on coils inside freezer.
Damper opens and closes properly.
Haven't taken a thermometer to the freezer, but it is keeping items frozen and making ice.
After plugging back in the fan was stuck so I gave it a boost and it started up. It seems to be running slowly tho. There is no blockage in damper or vents as I can feel airflow through both when I open and close the freezer drawer, but feel no airflow coming through the vents otherwise. Is the airflow just extremely faint?

I think I've narrowed it down to a bad fan, but I want to be sure before I spend the money on a replacement.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:04 AM
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Hello Bradley,

You are on the right track. Most likely the evaporator fan motor is the culprit.

- The evaporator fan motor Part number: 12002744

Part number: 12002744


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Old 01-03-2013, 08:49 PM
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I went ahead and bought that part today before seeing your reply. Good thing your reply came back as a thumbs up. The part I got looks a little different, but had the correct model number on it. It doesn't have the plastic housing around the entire thing, just around the motor itself. I just finished installing it, but the clearance isn't correct. I was able to make it work (by not screwing the screws in all the way for the fan housing) where its not really hanging there, but its not really tight either.

I was thinking of buying the updated fan blade or simply drilling the hole a little deeper on the old one. It seems I just need a couple millimeters of extra clearance so the fan doesn't rub when the housing is completely tightened down. It seems the fan would be a bit less noisy if the housing were snug.

Should I drill out the old fan blade to allow clearance, or just order the updated fan blade?
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:24 PM
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Default had reapir guy change mother board fridge is warm freezer cold

Hi Gene,
Had a repair guy here on Sunday the fridge is cool not cold where its keeping just milk and eggs in there for how long i don't know its just that i put a defrosted chicken in there last night and it was not cold to the touch when i took it out and i had some cooked food that went bad. there was ice on the coil when he opened it. He replaced the mother board said that was the problem but after 2 days the fridge is not COLD.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5F to 6F) and refrigerator (36F to 40F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the search button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If its open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if its frozen because if its warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
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