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Originally Posted by ment2b ...There's no frost in the 2nd pic because the freezer is defrosted and not yet plugged

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Old 10-08-2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ment2b View Post
...There's no frost in the 2nd pic because the freezer is defrosted and not yet plugged in...
It was a few days since our last conversation. How is the refrigerator working now?

Gene.

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Last edited by Gene : 10-08-2012 at 05:38 PM.
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  #1772 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2012, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
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It was a few days since out last conversation. How is the refrigerator working now?

Gene.
100% working fine. Temps are spot on.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:39 PM
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Good news. Hope it will last a few more years.

Gene.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rockjeep44 View Post
Samsung "POS" RS265LBBP refrigerator here. POS is not part of the model number, that's my addition based on performance Anyways, freezer is good as gold, refrigerator sits around 56-60 degrees with no air movement that I can see.

Anyways, thanks to all the research here I did a self diagnosis and it returned section 4 (Fan motor system abnormality in R compartment) and section 7 (Abnormality in defrosting system for R compartment). Should I start with the cheapest/easiest fix by ordering the fan motor item #AP4136569, replacing it, and seeing if that cures the section 7 error as well? If it doesn't then I guess move on to plan B which is troubleshooting the section 7 defrost error? Thanks for the advice

Oh, and while I'm here does anyone have the service manual for this fridge? I found one for another model online but it has some differences.
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I don't see why not.

Unfortunately I did not find the service manual for this model.

Gene.
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Thanks Gene. I placed the order and will report back with my results.
One month update. Replacing the fan motor seems to have fixed the issue. Refrigerator and freezer are running like a champ. Thanks for the help here on the forum
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Old 10-09-2012, 02:08 PM
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You are welcome. We're glad it's up and running.

Thank you for the feed back.

Gene.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:02 PM
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Hi Gene. I didn't post my problem, but used some of your excellent work in this and other threads on the Freezer is fine, Refrigerator is warm issue. My box is a GE TBX18JASWH, bought in Jan 1994.

Being who I am, I replaced the defrost thermostat first based on it's easy access.

No solution, so I proceeded to pull the back out of the freezer. Once I melted all the ice and frost off the coil, my problem became obvious. The defrost heater had failed, and when the coating burst, it burnt a small slot in the metal bracket that holds it in place. (circuit breakers are a blessing)

I was shocked at the damage when it failed, and had no hesitation in adding the fusible links to the ends of the replacement heater. If I can get it right, I'll add some pics of the old heater for those who never saw one that failed.

Thanks, again, for the excellent resource, and service you provide.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:52 PM
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John,

Just wanted to thank you for sharing your diagnosis and repair with us. It's not often we see such damage done by a shorted defrost heater, so your post was very illuminating and instructive.

Thanks again and good luck with your refrigerator.

Gene.
P.S. Make sure you'll seal all electrical connections for the new heater and fusible links to protect them from moister.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:40 AM
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Hi Gene.

I assumed that wasn't the normal looking failure. There's 5/8" or more of the element that's just gone missing from the heater. Makes me glad I spent the time to rewire the house in the mid 90s. Split a 220 line into a 4 breaker box directly below the kitchen and put the fridge on a breaker by itself.

Forgot to mention that the schematic drawings were in a plastic bag under the temp control cover in the refrigerator. It lists the parts numbers for the most commonly needed replacements on it.

I added male connectors to the the fusible links, rather than cut the wires, since I'm not fond of crimps on 2 stranded wires. Plugged it all together, and used some 100% silicone rated -60 to 400 degrees F. around the connectors.

Almost forgot. There's a section of the cooling condenser under the box that turns up in front of the compressor and fan (L shaped) that I was unable to reach with a brush. Used the blower side of my shop vac to get that clean. Warning: dust went everywhere, just get close enough to knock the dust off the grid, not out the door.
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:43 AM
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Dear Gene:

A few years ago, I posted a questions about Kenmore 106.57072601 freezer side cold, but fridge side warm. Later figured out that problem was that the air duct from freezer to firdge was blocked by frost and therefore cold air does not clow into fridge, once the frost was removed, the problem was fixed. It has been good for a month, then I found another problem: cold air will flow into fridge only when I open the freezer door, once that freezer door is closed, the cold air will stop flowing into fridge. I have checked the air conduct, all clear, and that is why cold air can flow to fridge side if I keep the freezer door open. There must be a trigger somewhere that I can turn on or off to fix the problem, please help..

Henry

Last edited by henryjiang18 : 11-06-2012 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:24 AM
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Hello Henry,

Remove the meat pan from the refrigerator and inspect the air return window on the left side.

If it's not blocked, remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with frost. Post the results.

Gene.
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