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This is a relatively young french door style Amana unit. I read through the replies here, and I couldn't find

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  #1531 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 02:13 PM
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Default Warm fridge and cold freezer on an Amana

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This is a relatively young french door style Amana unit. I read through the replies here, and I couldn't find one that applies to mine. No defrost timer, as this one has an electronic control system. The freezer is just icy, but the fridge is warm. The compressor runs almost continuously. The coils arn't frozen, and ventilation isn't blocked. Cool air is not coming out of the vent at the top of the refrigerator compartment. The meat tray, with its own little vent, still was pretty cool.

This is actually the second time this has happened. The first time, I unplugged the unit, made sure the compressor area was clean, and interior and exterior vents were clear, and so on. After plugging back in, it was fine for three or four weeks. Once again, fridge was warm, freezer was fine. And once again, after being unplugged for a time to clean and check, it seems to be fine again.

I bet this isn't the last time the problem will show. Maybe the flap servo to the fridge compartment is flakey? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!



The model is:

AFF2534FEB

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  #1532 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2012, 05:51 PM
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Make sure the damper control (#13 at the diagram) gate is open. If it's closed, check the mechanical parts of the gate and the damper motor for continuity.

- The damper control Part number: W10196393

Part number: W10196393



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Amana AFF2534FEB REF - BOTTOM MOUNTS | AppliancePartsPros.com

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  #1533 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2012, 06:24 PM
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I can feel when it is letting air through, however I wanted to be sure so I used a set of test leads and 120 volts to make sure it operated properly.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:15 PM
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Default Seems to be a defrost issue after all....

Thanks so much for the response! Seems either I didn't notice this the first time around, or that the problem is different now. I found the fridge was warm again, and I checked the vent servo, and it was open. Looking through the slits at the back of the fridge, there does look to be frost buildup. I'm going to shut it off, and let it defrost.

I wonder if it's best at this point just to get a new control board? Or should the heater and sensor be tested?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Make sure the damper control (#13 at the diagram) gate is open. If it's closed, check the mechanical parts of the gate and the damper motor for continuity.

- The damper control Part number: W10196393

Part number: W10196393



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Amana AFF2534FEB REF - BOTTOM MOUNTS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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  #1535 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelriffic View Post
...I wonder if it's best at this point just to get a new control board?...

...Or should the heater and sensor be tested?...
Maytag designed special frost kit due to complains on such problems. This kit includes the new control board as well and it comes with the installation instructions.

It would not hurt to check these parts.

- The frost kit Part number: 12002754

Part number: 12002754



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Old 05-24-2012, 05:51 AM
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Gene,
Any thoughts on my problem, it seems to be staying in range however with the fresh food dial in the position it's in I have no adjustment. Should I return this part and start shopping for a new fridge?
Thanks
Brac
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  #1537 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2012, 10:59 AM
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Hi Gene, I installed the new thermostat yesterday afternoon. After I turned the power back on, no matter how high or low I set it, the fridge would not turn on. So I wiggled/pulled/pushed every connection I could find and finally the fridge started cooling. Since then, it has worked fine and stays within the temp range I have it set for. Now I am wondering if the problem with old thermostat was just a loose connection? I have viewed the "continuity testing" section of the forum and will eventually test the old thermostat.
FYI for those wondering how the old thermostat comes out: the only tricky parts for me were: separating the dial from the thermostat: once you have the thermostat/dial separated from the housing, pull straight down on the dial: it is just a tension-clamp attachment. AND, the coil wrapped around the plastic tub at the end of the long wire: how to get that off of its holder: take down the whole plate/assembly from the fridge ceiling--this is not difficult, you just unhinge it from the back brackets; no need to disconnect anything other than the thermostat---then pry the old coil/plastic tub out of its socket--also easy.
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:49 PM
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Hi Brac,

That's what I received from one of our experts: "...a solution for anyone who might have the same problem I had after installing the new control box kit. My initial problem was with the damper periodically "sticking" open and freezing the refrigerator contents. There were no other problems. I purchased the control box kit and after installation, the refrigerator worked, but the damper continuously cycled open and closed. After 4 or 5 days, the freezer still worked, but the fridge would warm up because the evaporator coil would freeze up and block air flow (wasn't defrosting). The cause - the offset 3-prong (limit switch) plug on the damper connections was not connected properly. Apparently, the factory chimp missed one of the blade terminals when making the plug connection. The damper cycled because it didn't "know" what position it was in, and the action fooled the ADC into never activating the defrost system. I plugged it in correctly, and am back in business."

This problem is not exactly what you had but the cause (and fix) can be very similar.

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  #1539 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2012, 05:12 PM
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Gene,
We've been going along for about a week, with the temp in the normal range. Then today the fridge starts getting warm, I reach in back and notice there is very little air flow. So as you just guessed the coil was frozen. I defrosted with a blow dryer, now I'm trying to figure out how this relates to the other issue? (which was dealt with by replacing the control box)
Thanks
Brac
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  #1540 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 02:09 PM
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Default Frigidaire freezer ok - frig a little warm

Reviewed Gene's comments, I found out that my frig has an adaptive timer and not a mechanical one. I have cold air blowing from the vent and the warm air return is not blocked. I think my next try is replacing the adaptive timer (pc Board). Does this sound logical or is there a way to test it before spending the money?

Thanks to all for your input,
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