Discuss

Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.

 in

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair

. "

Whirpool GS6SHEXMS00 (2004) freezer cold, refer warm Changed the Adaptive Defrost card, thermostat, and heater element. Still icing up in

..."
 
 
Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras
Appliance Repair Forum > Appliance Repair Help > Refrigerator & Freezer Repair » Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.

Post New Thread  Reply By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1361 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:42 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 4
Sundog is on a distinguished road
Default Whirpool GS6SHEXMS00 (2004) freezer cold, refer warm

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Whirpool GS6SHEXMS00 (2004) freezer cold, refer warm
Changed the Adaptive Defrost card, thermostat, and heater element.
Still icing up in the duct from freezer to refer, and on the coils.
I am stumped. Any ideas on the next step?

Wife's wants it fixed. Any idease from anyone before I call the tech to come out? Thanks in advance.



Read more: Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
  #1362 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2011, 07:23 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 14
ssbbidask is on a distinguished road
Default Amana w/ Electric controls Bottom freezes Top Warm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5F to 6F) and refrigerator (36F to 40F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the search button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If its open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if its frozen because if its warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

Gene, Your post here mentions the instructions are for fridges that do not have electronics; I have an Amana ABB222ZDEW bottom freezer with the freezer compartment icing inside. We seldom open the freezer as it is a second unit in our built-in garage. This has happened several times where I have emptied the unit to thaw out the iced unit when the fridge starts to warm (to 54 degrees.) How do I check the various components for a defrost cycle failure? If I read correctly the timer is built into the control board. (?)

I have searched by the model number to see the diagram and found the thermistor and the evaporator heater wrapped around coils. It also shows a thermostat without any locating number. Where is this usually found on these units? Any help will be appreciated.

Read more: Refrigerator not cooling, but freezer is working
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
Reply With Quote
  #1363 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2011, 05:47 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 18
Methodical is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical View Post
Bill you may want to change everything. That is what I ended up having to do and it has worked ever since.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmissell View Post
Thanks Methodical - when you say replace everything what all are you thinking? Seems to me all I have left is the defroster lamp itself. Doesn't seem right since it works but I can try...
If you already replaced the controller, thermostat and heater then I don't know what else to check as I am not familiar with your unit.
Reply With Quote
  #1364 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2011, 06:02 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 4
Sundog is on a distinguished road
Default Freezer fine, refer warm expeience - possible lesson for rookies

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundog View Post
Changed the Adaptive Defrost card, thermostat, and heater element.
Still icing up in the duct from freezer to refer, and on the coils.
I am stumped. Any ideas on the next step?
History - fixed an older Amana S/S last Feb with Gene's excellent advice (thanks again Gene!). Using his guidance, megged a bad heater and replaced same, great service from APP, felt like a pro. Amana had defrost timer vice adaptive defrost control board (ADC).

Mid-Sep in north Florida, Whirlpool 25.2 S/S gets the virus - freezer cold, refer warm. Lots of ice in the return vent form refer to freezer. No major ice on the coil, but hoar frost on the inside of the freezer roof and door (yes, seals are good). One more thing, we live on the beach and the horrible 99 degree heat had broken... SO WE TURNED OFF THE A/C AND OPENED THE WINDOWS - ahhh... sea breeze (house inside went from 78 degrees/30% humidity to 88 degrees/80% humidity...more on this later). Sea-breeze beats A/C.

But thanks to Gene, I know how to handle this! (Timer, heater, t-stat).
ADC costs $90.00 so I megged the ice cold t-stat (good) and the heater (good), defrosted, waited. Good for two days then more of the same. Wife had set the controls (1-7, dial freezer inlet damper called "freezer", 1-7 dial to call for compressor & cold called "refer"), from 4/4 to 7/7 because the "refer was to warm" .

Bought the ADC and installed. Reset to 4/4. Same story. Wife "readjusted" controls to 7/7 because the "refer was too warm" (need a diamond drill to get any ice cream and refer stuff was becoming fragrant).
That's when I sent the "stumped" thread above.

Bite the bullet - I call a local pro for help. After two no-shows and lots of excusing, called new outfit which sent out "Stanley", who was patient and dedicated. After three hours, long story short - NOTHING WRONG WITH HARDWARE, WE HAD ON "OPERATOR" ISSUE - total ice-up, needed a hard-reboot.

Replaced new ADC with old, checked damper assembly and compressor call thermistor in refer cabinet - both good. Defrosted, cleaned it up, and Stanley set the controls to 2/2, with fol excellent explanation:

1- Once you get fully frosted-up, full melt down and restart required.
2- "Freezer" control sets air flow twixt freezer & refer; lower numbers allow more air to refer (cooling) and higher numbers restrict air flow from freezer to refer.
3 - "Refer" control (in refer compartment) calls for cooling from compressor. Lower numbers = allows refer temp to get higher before a call for cool. Higher numbers = calls for cool at a lower temp.
4 - Root Cause - Air Con off, higher humidity, possible cracked-open freezer door (never noticed this, but's happened before) and 7/7 setting caused airflow section ice-up that could only be addressed by total defrost.

LESSON - keep the settings on your unit as low as fit your taste and no higher. Higher settings not only raise your utility costs, but also raise the chance of a total freeze up.

BTW - Stanley is a legal immigrant Haitian/Creole speaker - very hard to understand, but patient, methodical and persistent. Providence intervened when the first knuckleheads goofed up & Stanley arrived. Thanks Stanley!
Thanks Gene and APP for this wonderful thread.
Hope my post helps someone.
Reply With Quote
  #1365 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2011, 01:44 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
collinsmj is on a distinguished road
Default Similar Proble - Cost?

My parents are having a problem with there refrigerator that sounds similar. It is a Kenmore with the freezer on the bottom. The refrigerator is warm and ice is forming on the back wall of the freezer. When they removed as much ice as they could the refrigerator got colder but the ice started forming again. I live too far away from them to try any of the suggested tests and they will not be able to do try either. My question is, can anybody give me an idea of how much such a repair might cost so that they have some idea when calling a repair person. I realize that this could vary, but a ballpark range would really be helpful. Thanks.

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #1366 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2011, 11:47 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
orlandojim is on a distinguished road
Default

Gene,
I read your defrost article with all the different things listed. I have a problem with my 25cu double door GE (GSS25JFPD ww). I had the freezer ok, fridge warm problem and a guy came and diagnosed a bad board. Charged me $20. We got the board ($130) and he charged me $40 to come and put it in. At first it did not solve the problem but when I removed the back panel, unplugged the fridge and thawed the block of ice on the coil with a hair dryer, it has worked fine for 30-40 days. Now it's starting to do the same (freezer -10, fridge 48F) should I just defrost the
coil again with hair dryer or attempt some other fix? I called tech about board and parts and they said the timer is built into the board on my model.
thanks, Orlando Jim
Reply With Quote
  #1367 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2011, 03:59 PM
Gene's Avatar
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 27,171
Gene has a brilliant futureGene has a brilliant future
Default

Jim,

You may want to check the defrost heater and thermostat for continuity as described on page 3 of this thread.

Gene.
__________________
Appliance Repair Expert in Orange County, California.

Order Appliance Parts with 365-Day Hassle Free Return Policy - AppliancePartsPros.com
Reply With Quote
  #1368 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2011, 08:54 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
orlandojim is on a distinguished road
Default Freezer fine, fridge warm

Gene,
I went out of town for the day and came back to find the fridge back at 40f and freezer still around -10. Been ok for past two days. I set the freezer temp a little lower (I have two dials; one for freezer and one for
fridge) and am waiting to see what happens. I was thinking it's maybe an intermittent thing but am willing to check anything next time it acts up.
I can probably get a continuity meter at the local Ace hardware or one of the discount places. appreciate the guidance. OrlandoJim GE GSS25JFPD ww
Reply With Quote
  #1369 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2011, 11:39 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
eg9327 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you. This seems to be my problem too. I'll try this diagnostic whem I get home and let you know.
Reply With Quote
  #1370 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2011, 04:07 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 9
Denis_D is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Such problem has nothing to do with the defrost system. Most likely the door(s) not sealed properly or repeatedly kept ajar.

You can check the door seals by a visual inspection or by inserting a dollar bill between the door gasket and door frame. If it will stay firm, the seal is good.
Gene.
Gene,
This is a reply from your July 30 post, replying to my dilemma.

I did the dollar bill test and low and behold, the gasket at the bottom of the door was shot. Of course I couldn't see how rotted out it was until I actually got under the door and looked at it. So, I replaced the gasket on the fridge door (Freezer door was fine), following their directions. That was early August. This past week I noticed that the fridge was not getting as cold as it should, do I pulled things apart and found the port between the freezer and fridge once again blocked solid with ice, as was the control at the top-front of the freezer door. When I pulled the back freezer panel off to manually deforst the clogged port I did find an amount of ice build up behind the thin metal back freezer panel.

In short, I have the same problem as before replacing the gasket, just a longer period before the symptoms reappeared. two months, instead of two weeks.

Do you have any idea what I should try next?

Thanks,
Denis
Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Freezer is fine; refrigerator warm LaDonna357 Refrigerator & Freezer Repair 16 06-28-2013 03:56 PM
freezer fine refrigerator too warm cibao67 Refrigerator & Freezer Repair 5 07-10-2012 07:42 PM
Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm amnhac81 Refrigerator & Freezer Repair 0 07-10-2009 03:48 PM
Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm. allemich Refrigerator & Freezer Repair 3 04-20-2009 08:08 PM
Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm. silvia28 Refrigerator & Freezer Repair 0 08-05-2008 11:16 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:54 AM.

The content on this web site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace an on-site diagnosis from a qualified appliance service technician. By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com , Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17