[snathanb]

Hi All,

I have a Frigidaire F44Q18CCW0 with the symptoms described in the title.

The problem started when the kids left the fridge open a crack one day, the evaporator iced up, so no air was making it down to the fridge section and ice restricted the fan from blowing.

After unplugging the fridge 24 hours to complete defrost it, I plugged it back in. After 24 hours, the freezer was at -3 and the fridge at 35, so definitely not a problem with the compressor, evap, etc.

Now, after 24 hours, it is starting to ice up again and warm back up. This leads me to believe there is something at issue with the defrost circuitry.

On this particular model, which components should I check and how do I get to them?

[EPAJAK]

Originally Posted by Gene

When did you clean the condenser coils?

How hot on touch is the compressor?

Did you put the cover back in place?

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF CSB2121ARA REF - SXS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

We cleaned (sort of...maybe need a better tool) the coils last night, and maybe that is why the temp went down to 52 this morning. The compressor is so hot I almost burned my fingers on it. Yes the cover is back in place. What should we do next?

[Methodical]

Update: Gene, I replaced the board and so far so good.

Question: I had water in the ice cube tray that I forgot to remove before I restarted the unit. Will that affect the icemaker ability to make ice? I ask because according to the manual, once the frig reaches 0 to -2 degrees, it lets water in and then begin to create ice.

Thanks...Al

Originally Posted by Gene

If the result of the defrost thermostat continuity test was close to 0 Ohms then you are on the right track. The new Adaptive Defrost Control board should fix the problem.

- The ADC board Part number: AP4014734

Gene.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by smackattack

...Looks like both had their leads go into a plastic coupler (or whatever they are called, wires are pressed into plastic fittings). I really wasnt in a mind to try and pry out one end on the defrost heater just to test continuity and then not get the thing back working...


...I am a bit concerned about swapping the defrost heater. That thing is just not that flexible and it looks like its wedged into some slots on the evaporator assembly. The heater did not seem to want to move easily. I have a feeling there is going to be a lot of blood on the evaporator trying to get that thing out of there...

You do not have to pry out any wires. If it's kind of a quick disconnect plug, then unplug it. Otherwise just cut off the needed wires far enough from any fittings, so you will be able to splice them in later.

There is nothing difficult with this kind of the defrost heater. Look into it more close and you'll see how to pull it out if it has to be replaced. BTW it is very rare for such heaters to be bad. So, you definitely have to check it for continuity first.

- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP3108445

- The defrost heater Part number: AP3997341

Gene.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by snathanb

Hi All,

I have a Frigidaire F44Q18CCW0 with the symptoms described in the title.

The problem started when the kids left the fridge open a crack one day, the evaporator iced up, so no air was making it down to the fridge section and ice restricted the fan from blowing.

After unplugging the fridge 24 hours to complete defrost it, I plugged it back in. After 24 hours, the freezer was at -3 and the fridge at 35, so definitely not a problem with the compressor, evap, etc.

Now, after 24 hours, it is starting to ice up again and warm back up. This leads me to believe there is something at issue with the defrost circuitry.

On this particular model, which components should I check and how do I get to them?

Follow the instructions on the first page. The parts are shown as: the defrost timer - #23 on the diagram, the defrost heater & defrost thermostat - #14 & #21 on the diagram.

- The defrost timer Part number: AP2111929

- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP2150024

- The defrost heater Part number: AP2132831

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE F44Q18CCW0 Frg(v2) / Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by EPAJAK

We cleaned (sort of...maybe need a better tool) the coils last night, and maybe that is why the temp went down to 52 this morning. The compressor is so hot I almost burned my fingers on it. Yes the cover is back in place. What should we do next?

If the condenser coils are really clean and the condenser fan is running as it suppose to then there is a problem with the sealed system or the compressor itself.

Gene.

P.S. The best tool for condenser cleaning is a special brush Part number: AP4320046

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Methodical

...I had water in the ice cube tray that I forgot to remove before I restarted the unit. Will that affect the icemaker ability to make ice?..

Al,

It would not affect the ice maker performance, but you would not be able to use the ice dispenser. The ice bin has to be removed, defrosted and dried.

Gene.

[Denis_D]

Maybe I didn't don the first reply correctly, since there was no response. Please forgive me if I'm doing something wrong here. I'm just trying to get a bit of help with my problem Frigidaire side by side. Here's the original request that I sent yesterday.

Hi Gene,
I have an (older) Frigidaire FRS24XHAW0 and the freezer is cold but fridge is not, There isn't much ice on the back panel but the port between the freezer and the fridge got cloged with ice and blocked the cold air from the freezer from entering the fridge. A sears repair tech came about a month ago and took everything apart defrosted it all and said that it was caused by a bad gasget on the fridge door.

A couple of weeks later I had the same problem. but this time I could actually see the frost form on the duct outlet (upper-rear) on the fridge side. I defosted it my self, taking all the parts out and using a hair dryer to clear the freezer to fridge port. I also found that the temp control for the freezer (upper front freezer panel knob) was completely jamed with ice and had to be defrosted just to get it to turn. Now, two weeks later, again, the fridge is warm. This time I cant see any frost forming and I can turn the temp control knobs byt the fridge is warming up again (60 deg. F). Am I still looking at a defrost timer, or is it perhaps something else?

[smackattack]

Originally Posted by Gene

You do not have to pry out any wires. If it's kind of a quick disconnect plug, then unplug it. Otherwise just cut off the needed wires far enough from any fittings, so you will be able to splice them in later.

There is nothing difficult with this kind of the defrost heater. Look into it more close and you'll see how to pull it out if it has to be replaced. BTW it is very rare for such heaters to be bad. So, you definitely have to check it for continuity first.

According to the instructions, you say to remove 1 wire and test continuity on the heater, if they are both in a quick disconnect, can i unplug it and then just check continuity touching each wire in the plug?

You say the heater going bad is rare, is the most likely culprit the defrost thermostat then? Could I start just by swapping the thermostat and see if it solved the problem. I must say, on inspection, that defrost heater looks like a right pain in the butt to change.

Thanks again

[zonic]

Hello Gene!

I have same problem with my whirlpool model ED2FHEXSS02. I tried to search the defrost timer of said fridge in Appliance Parts search by model or part number | AppliancePartsPros.com but I couldn't find it. Does this kind of model doesn't have a defrost timer? If none, what is the best way to check the problem?

Thank you in advance helping me.