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Originally Posted by Methodical ... Update: I removed the defrost thermostat and placed it in my freezer for about 1

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  #1291 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2011, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical View Post
...Update: I removed the defrost thermostat and placed it in my freezer for about 1 hour and it tested ok, so I guess that leaves me with the adaptor defrost board as the culprit....
If the result of the defrost thermostat continuity test was close to 0 Ohms then you are on the right track. The new Adaptive Defrost Control board should fix the problem.

- The ADC board Part number: AP4014734

Part number: AP4014734



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  #1292 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2011, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by garagewear View Post
...Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXVA01...
Thank you for the complete model number.

Did you run the Service Diagnostic mode?

If you did, what was the results?


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  #1293 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 02:47 AM
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Thanks Gene. Kind of you to be so helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
If the result of the defrost thermostat continuity test was close to 0 Ohms then you are on the right track. The new Adaptive Defrost Control board should fix the problem.

- The ADC board Part number: AP4014734

Part number: AP4014734



Gene.
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  #1294 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 09:54 AM
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Default Magic Chef Freezer fine, Fridge warm

I have a Magic Chef side by side CSB2121ARA the freezer works well, the fridge is 65 degrees!

The frame of the fridge is HOT. The evaporator coils are clean, no frost (should there be a light frost?), the fan in the freezer works. We cleaned the condenser coils. The condenser fan comes on so it is apparently working.
The tray in the freezer is draining properly, the tray in the back of the fridge is draining.
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  #1295 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 02:35 PM
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Thumbs up Ref posts 1284 and 1286

This is in reference to post 1284 and reply in 1286.

I did the trick with the defrost timer. waited about 12 minutes and didnt hear any sizzle, didnt hear much of anything until the time clicked back to freezer mode around 14 minutes.

Finally got around to taking everything out of the freezer and putting it in a cooler today, Noticed that ice is already forming in the back after 2 weeks, definitely no defrost going on now. Everything was iced up so I had to defrost it first to get a look at the thermostat and the heater.

Looks like both had their leads go into a plastic coupler (or whatever they are called, wires are pressed into plastic fittings). I really wasnt in a mind to try and pry out one end on the defrost heater just to test continuity and then not get the thing back working.

Unless in general one part is the must likely culprit here (defrost thermostat or the defrost heater) I am of a mind to just buy both parts just in case.

I am a bit concerned about swapping the defrost heater. That thing is just not that flexible and it looks like its wedged into some slots on the evaporator assembly. The heater did not seem to want to move easily. I have a feeling there is going to be a lot of blood on the evaporator trying to get that thing out of there. Any secrets to impart on messing with this thing?

Thanks in advance for the help.
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  #1296 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EPAJAK View Post
I have a Magic Chef side by side CSB2121ARA the freezer works well, the fridge is 65 degrees!

The frame of the fridge is HOT. The evaporator coils are clean, no frost (should there be a light frost?), the fan in the freezer works. We cleaned the condenser coils. The condenser fan comes on so it is apparently working.
The tray in the freezer is draining properly, the tray in the back of the fridge is draining.
When did you clean the condenser coils?

How hot on touch is the compressor?

Did you put the cover back in place?

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF CSB2121ARA REF - SXS | AppliancePartsPros.com

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  #1297 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smackattack View Post
This is in reference to post 1284 and reply in 1286.

I did the trick with the defrost timer. waited about 12 minutes and didnt hear any sizzle, didnt hear much of anything until the time clicked back to freezer mode around 14 minutes.

Finally got around to taking everything out of the freezer and putting it in a cooler today, Noticed that ice is already forming in the back after 2 weeks, definitely no defrost going on now. Everything was iced up so I had to defrost it first to get a look at the thermostat and the heater.

Looks like both had their leads go into a plastic coupler (or whatever they are called, wires are pressed into plastic fittings). I really wasnt in a mind to try and pry out one end on the defrost heater just to test continuity and then not get the thing back working.

Unless in general one part is the must likely culprit here (defrost thermostat or the defrost heater) I am of a mind to just buy both parts just in case.

I am a bit concerned about swapping the defrost heater. That thing is just not that flexible and it looks like its wedged into some slots on the evaporator assembly. The heater did not seem to want to move easily. I have a feeling there is going to be a lot of blood on the evaporator trying to get that thing out of there. Any secrets to impart on messing with this thing?

Thanks in advance for the help.
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

Gene.
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  #1298 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 08:59 PM
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Default My problem seems close to this, but not quite

Hi Gene,
I have an (older) Frigidaire FRS24XHAW0 and the freezer is cold but fridge is not, There isn't much ice on the back panel but the port between the freezer and the fridge got cloged with ice and blocked the cold air from the freezer from entering the fridge. A sears repair tech came about a month ago and took everything apart defrosted it all and said that it was caused by a bad gasget on the fridge door.

A couple of weeks later I had the same problem. but this time I could actually see the frost form on the duct outlet (upper-rear) on the fridge side. I defosted it my self, taking all the parts out and using a hair dryer to clear the freezer to fridge port. I also found that the temp control for the freezer (upper front freezer panel knob) was completely jamed with ice and had to be defrosted just to get it to turn. Now, two weeks later, again, the fridge is warm. This time I cant see any frost forming and I can turn the temp control knobs byt the fridge is warming up again (60 deg. F). Am I still looking at a defrost timer, or is it perhaps something else?

Last edited by Denis_D : 07-26-2011 at 05:24 AM. Reason: Clarify and spelling
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  #1299 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

Gene.
roper RT18BKXJW00
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  #1300 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 04:52 AM
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Hi All,

I have a Frigidaire F44Q18CCW0 with the symptoms described in the title.

The problem started when the kids left the fridge open a crack one day, the evaporator iced up, so no air was making it down to the fridge section and ice restricted the fan from blowing.

After unplugging the fridge 24 hours to complete defrost it, I plugged it back in. After 24 hours, the freezer was at -3 and the fridge at 35, so definitely not a problem with the compressor, evap, etc.

Now, after 24 hours, it is starting to ice up again and warm back up. This leads me to believe there is something at issue with the defrost circuitry.

On this particular model, which components should I check and how do I get to them?
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