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Hi, I have a Frigidaire FRT22TSEB5 that has had the back freezer panel frost over with the refrigerator becoming warm

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Old 07-15-2011, 10:26 PM
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Hi, I have a Frigidaire FRT22TSEB5 that has had the back freezer panel frost over with the refrigerator becoming warm 3 times in the past 6 months. After reading through this thread I first checked the defrost timer and didn't notice any change after the 10-15 minutes. After removing the back panel I discovered heavy build up of ice/frost. Checking the continuity of the defrost heater I got a reading of 26. Is it even necessary to test the thermostat at this point or is that all that remains? The other question I have is does the 26 reading on the heater provide any indication of it's remaining life?

Thanks in advance and thank you for providing this wonderful resource which looks like it will be saving us from a much larger bill!

Jim

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  #1282 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2011, 11:01 PM
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Gene,
I posted on a seperate thread then saw this and it probably applies here. I have a bad defrost heater element in my GE refrig, tfx22kpdaww. I got the part to replace the bad one but the new part is a double element and the old is a single element. The double element is larger and seems to not fit. From what I understand GE intentionally replaced the single with the double so can you tell me what is the best way to either get the larger one to fit or how to find a single one?

Thanks

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Old 07-16-2011, 07:47 AM
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Default Jim's FRT22TSE

a bit confused now - defrost thermostat out and I'm getting readings of over 240 on it after it has been sitting in ice water. I put it back in and started at step one. Cycled the defrost timer and didn't notice any temp change in the defrost heater. I held an ice cube against it and didn't notice any accelerated melting. It seems like it is the heater despite the readings last night unless I have completely misunderstood something. Leaning towards replacing all three since it is all accesible now.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:27 PM
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...defrost thermostat out and I'm getting readings of over 240 on it after it has been sitting in ice water...
Jim,

The defrost thermostat is definitely bad (based on the test result). The normal reading suppose to be about 0 Ohms. You had to replace it instead of putting it back.

- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP2150024

Part number: AP2150024



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRT22TSEB5 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 07-18-2011, 04:36 PM
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...I got the part to replace the bad one but the new part is a double element and the old is a single element. The double element is larger and seems to not fit. From what I understand GE intentionally replaced the single with the double so can you tell me what is the best way to either get the larger one to fit or how to find a single one?...
Yes, you are correct. GE has redesigned this part and replaced one heating element with two to give a better defrost. This kit comes with the installation instructions. If you have not received it, call the company where you get it from.

The old single heating element kit is still available too and you can order it as well.

- The defrost heater assembly Part number: AP2071523

Part number: AP2071523



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric TFX22KPDAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 07-18-2011, 07:59 PM
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Thanks Gene. I ended up getting the double element one put in. You can get it in with some encouragement but it is very tight. I had received the instructions but they say nothing about getting the larger unit installed due to size issues. They only explain the wiring issues.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:42 AM
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Thanks Gene. Great site and services!

Jim
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:10 PM
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Run the Service Diagnostics mode as described in the attached Tech sheet and post the results.

In the model number you posted you missed one letter between "V" & "0".

Gene.
Originally Posted by garagewear
I have a Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXV01. Has a constant beep and the fridge temp has risen to about 65. I have replaced the evap fan motor and defrost thermostat then noticed the damper was not opening to the fridge. I opened up the damper and the motor closed it back and still beeping. I unplugged the damper motor and the beeping quit. Is it the damper motor or the controller board?

** Just noticed the evap fan runs a couple of minutes, cycles off and beeps then starts back.

*** It ran all night. Freezer is -2 and Fridge is 49. I don't feel it blowing anymore but still getting the beep. Now the frequency is about every 30 seconds.



Whirlpool Gold GC3NHAXVA01
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:58 PM
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Smile Freezer working refrigerator warm...light stays on when door is closed

Hi my problem was like the standard freezer working but refrgerator warm, but with a added door light problem. the refrigerator light would stay on when the door was shut and with in a few min. would go off and stay off. If I un plugged the refrigerator and re plugged the light would go on and through this cycle. I had a feeling that the light was the problem with the warming (because I checked everything else, transformer, board, and therms.)
I was right, it was the simplest fix and this is what I did,
gently pull out door switch light with a screw driver.
pull out the wire connection.( when i did this the refrigerator fan started)
Ohm the 1 and 2 pins should be open then ohm the 3 and 4 pins
(the refrigerator side showed contact reading)
I opened up the switch and could see that the pin was on a constant connection so I gently pulled and bent the pin away from the contact( look at the other side of the switch the freezer side for example)
put the switch back together and reconnected to the refrigerator .
And this fixed the warming problem. It is working great now
I have a samsung modelRB1955sw
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:21 PM
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I have the Kenmore side by side unit (#59652673200) and have the same issue discussed here; high temperature in the fresh food side and frozen evap in the freezer. I defrosted the unit and tested the heating element and it tested ok (29.5 ohms). However, I did not test the defrost thermostat because it is no longer frozen. The unit also has the Adaptor Defrost Board. I only want to replace the defective part(s). The evap fan, compressor, compressor fan etc works fine.

Questions:

1. How do I test the defrost thermostat and what is a good reading? Thinking I have to remove, refreeze and then test.

2. How do I test the Adaptor Defrost Board and what is a good reading?

3. Or should I just replace both the thermostat and adaptor defrost board and be done with it?

Any help is appreciated

Thanks...Al

Update: I removed the defrost thermostat and placed it in my freezer for about 1 hour and it tested ok, so I guess that leaves me with the adaptor defrost board as the culprit.

Last edited by Methodical : 07-24-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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