[micoder]

I want to thank Gene for saving me a bunch of money. I did not have to replace my refrigerator. I ordered all three parts that Gene said could be the problem. I first replaced the defrost timer because it was easiest. Next I replaced the defrost thermostat. I measured the heater element with my ohm meter and it measured good. My fridge now works fine. I have an new heating element in my basement now in case it ever fails.

The only thing I might comment about is my Amana BR18VW refrigerator has a heating element that is really intertwined with the cooling coils. It looks impossible to me to remove. If the heating element was bad, my best option I felt was to simply disconnect the bad heating element and leave it in place. I would then put the new heating element against the cooling coils and just use the panel to hold it in place. Not the best solution but I could see no other.

Michael

[Gene]

Michael,

I'm glad you were able to fix it. The Maytag heating elements usually last pretty long and I do not think you will have to replace it.

Gene.

[rkpatt]

oops duplicate

[rkpatt]

See the link below for the schematic . Those wiring pigtals to the defrost heater are fused ( glass fuse in heat shrink tubing) . One fuse was blown . I suspect that somehow that the defrost thermostat was intermittently shorting to ground . I soldered in an inline fuse holder and replaced the defrost thermostat . Everything is working now .

Link to schematic - (click on it to enlarge)

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...schematic1.jpg


However, my wife had given up and went looking at new refrigerators over the weekend (while this one was down ) and I might have to buy a new one anyway . She wants the LG French door model w/o the door ice and water . Is LG okay ? My local parts house tells me parts have to come directly from LG. But it really is a purchase that we do not need to make .


Thanks for your help

Originally Posted by Gene

rkpatt,

I do not have the wiring diagram for your refrigerator. If you can post it, it might help to better understand your problem. I never seen a fused defrost circuit.

Gene.

[Gene]

rkpatt,

Thank you for the diagram. I found that the new defrost heater is coming with both fusible links as an assembly and it's much better to replace the whole assembly if you are going to use this fridge.

About LG French doors refrigerator: as far as I know there was a lot of problems with the control boards for all LG refrigerators (due to wrong design, not poor quality) and I'm not sure if LG fixed it. Also I do not think a bottom mounted freezer is convenient to use.

If your old GE fridge is in good shape I do not see why to through it away. You can fix it (new defrost heater and defrost thermostat) for less than $80 and hopefully it will last a few more years.

- The part number for the defrost heater assembly is AP2071485

- The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP2071242

Gene.

[rkpatt]

I agree on fixing it for little cost (thats why I kept going with this and fixed it ) and waiting until there is a catastrophic failure or major kichen remodel , now to convince my wife .

Your comments about the potential probelm areas with LG are extremely helpful. BTW, how much do those ("newfangled") control boards for various brands cost ?

Thanks

[mark822]

I have read through many of the posts, and most seem to be encountering faulty defrost mechanisms. I am almost certain that is not my problem, so maybe you can shed some light on it.

The model is GE GTS18FBRERWW

The Freezer unit (until now) has been cold but the frig is warm and virtually no air is circulating through the fan area. I can only feel the slightest of cold air seeping down from the vent at the top of the frig unit.

I left the unit unplugged for 2 days, then sarted it back up today. The freezer got cold very quickly, the frig stayed warm. Then soon after the unit cycled off, the freezer compartment was warm too. Could a bad damper be causing both problems?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Mark

[Gene]

Hi Mark,

You have to wait at least 24 hours after you plugged the refrigerator back to see the real picture.

After that if you can measure the temperature in both compartments and post the results, it might help to better diagnose the problem.

Gene.

[rkpatt]

One more question on my GE from a few posts up . I put everything back together (new defrost T-stat and defrost timer ) and tested the defrost system . I then put the shelf back in and plugged in and mounted the icemaker . I in the plugged the icemaker did not fill . Should it fill or do I have to wait for deforst cycle or something . What do I need to check . Where do I find a wiring diagram of the icemaker (plug) . - Thanks

[Gene]

rkpatt,

The ice maker a thermostat inside and you have to wait a few hours until the ice maker cools down.

What kind of ice maker is in your fridge? Old style with the shut off arm on the left side or a newer electronic ice maker with the green LED?

Gene.