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Originally Posted by motodug ...How do I test on this model? How do I test the main board?... The resistance

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  #1171 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodug View Post
...How do I test on this model? How do I test the main board?...
The resistance of the thermostat and defrost heater can be taken by removing the access panel located in the upper left section of the evaporator cover. Remove the screw and pull the cover forward to expose the two-wire connector. Unplug the connector and read the resistance between the two terminals. Since the thermostat and heater are in series, the reading should be approximately 32 Ohms.

If the reading is correct, replace the main control board. It's recommended to replace it together with the evaporator thermistor (on top of the evaporator).

If the reading is incorrect, check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat separate.

- The main control board Part number: AP4436216

Part number: AP4436216



- The defrost heater Part number: AP3775436

Part number: AP3775436



- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP3796802

Part number: AP3796802



- The thermistor Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GBS22KBPAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

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  #1172 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
There are no such parts like defrost heater or thermostat in the fresh food compartment. This evaporator defrosting with a forced air flow through the coils. The temperature controls by the thermistor and the whole thing operates by the main control board.

Gene.
Hi Gene,
Thanks .Defrosted the Evap.coil on the fresh food section today and found this little beauty behind the coil in a block of aluminum. Changed it with the new one you had suggested.I'll let you know what happens.
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  #1173 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2011, 05:24 PM
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Default Refrigerator too warm...

Gene,
Thanks for the help. I just in stalled the new board. I bought the thermistor as well, but I was not sure if I could just cut and splice the wires inside the freezer or not.

Doug


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
The resistance of the thermostat and defrost heater can be taken by removing the access panel located in the upper left section of the evaporator cover. Remove the screw and pull the cover forward to expose the two-wire connector. Unplug the connector and read the resistance between the two terminals. Since the thermostat and heater are in series, the reading should be approximately 32 Ohms.

If the reading is correct, replace the main control board. It's recommended to replace it together with the evaporator thermistor (on top of the evaporator).

If the reading is incorrect, check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat separate.

- The main control board Part number: AP4436216

Part number: AP4436216



- The defrost heater Part number: AP3775436

Part number: AP3775436



- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP3796802

Part number: AP3796802



- The thermistor Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GBS22KBPAWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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  #1174 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2011, 06:55 PM
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Default Kitchen Aid

KTRC22MJBL01 MODEL #.Replaced defrost timer still no work, note has een unplugged for about a year.
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  #1175 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodug View Post
...I bought the thermistor as well, but I was not sure if I could just cut and splice the wires inside the freezer or not...
Doug,

Splicing actually is the best way to replace it.

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  #1176 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2011, 03:18 PM
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Gorillarms,

Have you seen the reply posted by denman yesterday?

fEEZER COLD FRIDGE WARM

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Old 04-14-2011, 05:55 PM
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Gene,

Thanks for the info. When I get the parts out is there any way to check them out to see if they are broken or not. For instance can I attach them to a meter to see if they are okay. If so, what should I be looking for as far as meter readings go.

BTW: I unplugged the unit and let it defrost. It's been good for the last few weeks but now I'm noticing some frost - once again one the rear of the freezer area.

Thanks,

JPC

quote=Gene

JPC,

The defrost timer (#648 on the diagram) is located inside the control housing.

- The defrost timer AP2061721


- The defrost heater AP2071484


- The defrost thermostat AP2071285


Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric TBX22PRBSRAA Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

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  #1178 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2011, 12:17 PM
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Default Kitchenaid KSRS25IKBL01

Freezer is fine, fridge is marginally cold with both the freezer and fridge temp control set to max cold. (Milk will spoil in 3 or 4 days especially in warm weather as it is definitely worse then). Have checked the evaporator coils and the frost buildup is minimal, so am assuming that the defrost cct is fine. The evaporator fan runs fine but have not continuously. Have no idea when it turns on or shuts off ??. The damper/diffuser at the top of the fridge compartment seems to always be open. There is some cold air being pumped in through there, but not a lot. There is not any apparent ice build up around the damper. This was a problem when the fridge was new but was repaired under warranty. As a side note, if I put the manual damper on the container at the bottom of the fridge from vegetable to meat it will come close to freezing most of what is in there.

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Last edited by Digger19 : 04-15-2011 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5F to 6F) and refrigerator (36F to 40F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the search button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If its open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if its frozen because if its warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
I had this issue happen. My fridge was working fine and my mother in law was cleaning the fridge (without my knowledge) and she was in the for about an hour with the fridge door open. The next few days the fridge was warm but the freezer was fine I was the back of the freezer frozen in a section so I unplugged it and let it all defrost. It seems to have reset itself and worked (for now) but there is this blinking light that is suppose to reset the water filter so I replaced it and tried resetting the light but it won't! I don't know it one has to do with the other please help. Whirlpool Model# ED2GHEXNL04
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  #1180 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2011, 01:48 PM
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Hi, I have just repaired my Maytag fridge/freezer due to it having a a faulty heating element. Its been working fine for the past 4 weeks or so then the fridge side has become to not to get as cool as it should again (its a side by side one) I think that I have left the metal exposed on each of the 'sockets' that fit the element into the rest of the wireing. I now fear that this has cased the element to short again as a slight build up of ice and this may have linked to both sockets. This is a big presumption, as I dont understand why after 4 weeks the problem is back again. Its the only thing I could think of. Could I be right in thinking ? Has it knackered the new heating element by shorting it out (i.e. my mistake that I did not ensure that there was no metal exposed on each of the sockets) ? Its definately freezing on the back pannel again so something is wrong
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