[Gene]

eriksena,

This is a duplicated post.

Answered here: Amana side by side not defrosting

Gene.

[rkpatt]

Same problem here with a GE TBX25PGRWW . The refrigerator temp is about 60 deg F and the Freezer temp is about 10 deg F . Where is the defrost timer for this model located ? - Thanks

[r.rydberg@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Gene

In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.

Hi Gene-

I have this exact problem (Frozen freezer and warm fridge) and am having a hard time here locating the defrost timer. I have a GE GSS201EMBWW.

Any suggestions?

[rkpatt]

I found the defrost timer in my GE refrigerator to be located in the upper part reg food compartment next to the thermostat ( temp control ) . There was a was a little white plastic plug that could be removed in order to turn it manually . If you want to go ahead and remove that panel cover anyway (power off ) , you will probably find a wiring diagram inside .

Originally Posted by r.rydberg@gmail.com

Hi Gene-

I have this exact problem (Frozen freezer and warm fridge) and am having a hard time here locating the defrost timer. I have a GE GSS201EMBWW.

Any suggestions?

[rkpatt]

This refrigerator has the classic symptoms of defrost circuit problems in the top sticky thread here .Back to the problem with my GETBX25PAYGRWW . I have checked the defrost thermostat (warm and cold ) and defrost heater and both are OK. However I was not getting power to the terminals of the defrost heater and was puzzled until I found the wiring diagram inside the panel that housed the defrost control ( defrost timer ). After looking at the wiring diagram ,I noticed that the wiring pigtals to the defrost heater for this model are fused so now I guess have to cut them and and check for continuity . If fuses (or fusible links )are blown, I guess it is pretty safe to presume that the problem is limited to defrost heater ?

[Gene]

rkpatt,

I do not have the wiring diagram for your refrigerator. If you can post it, it might help to better understand your problem. I never seen a fused defrost circuit.

Gene.

[Gene]

r.rydberg@gmail.com,

There is no defrost timer in your refrigerator. It operates by the main control board on the back of the fridge.

You can find the complete troubleshooting instructions in the reply to bohemian question here: Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.

Here are the break down diagrams for the GE refrigerator Model GSS20IEMBWW

Gene.

[micoder]

I want to thank Gene for saving me a bunch of money. I did not have to replace my refrigerator. I ordered all three parts that Gene said could be the problem. I first replaced the defrost timer because it was easiest. Next I replaced the defrost thermostat. I measured the heater element with my ohm meter and it measured good. My fridge now works fine. I have an new heating element in my basement now in case it ever fails.

The only thing I might comment about is my Amana BR18VW refrigerator has a heating element that is really intertwined with the cooling coils. It looks impossible to me to remove. If the heating element was bad, my best option I felt was to simply disconnect the bad heating element and leave it in place. I would then put the new heating element against the cooling coils and just use the panel to hold it in place. Not the best solution but I could see no other.

Michael

[Gene]

Michael,

I'm glad you were able to fix it. The Maytag heating elements usually last pretty long and I do not think you will have to replace it.

Gene.

[rkpatt]

oops duplicate