[Gene]

Originally Posted by r.rydberg@gmail.com

Hi Gene,

Thanks for directing me here. I know its been a while, but I now have the fridge apart. The control board in the back has been tested and looked ok, I now have removed the defrost heater and thermostat. I am a real novice with a multimeter. In audible mode, the thermo beeps and the heater makes no noise, though they both show positive readings in digital (numeric) mode. The thermo shows varying readings that go up as 13 then back to zero. The heater's numeric reading fluctuates mostly between 3 and 4 without zeroing out. I think but am not sure this means the heater needs to be replaced? Please educate me.

Thanks-
-Rene

Rene,

I do not know how did you test the control board. There are no possible instrumental tests for this part, so it is still questionable.

The best way to test the defrost heater and thermostat is described in the text you quoted. If you would like to test them outside of the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat should be relatively cold (bellow 10°F) and its resistance reading should be close to 0 Ohms. The normal resistance for the heater should be about 22 Ohms.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter or you can read the instructions for your meter.

Gene.

[LNav.VNav]

Hi Gene et al,

I've got a Maytag PSB2151GRW, and I think I've got a bad defrost heater. It is melting ice, but I don't hear the sizzling sound you talk about. It will be good for a while but it seems to get behind when the humidity is high and the door doesn't get closed. The timer seems to be working okay (I hear it ticking and it does kick on periodically on its own, but I was debating on replacing it also since I'm working on it. I know they aren't co-located :-(

Does it sound like I'm on the right track?

Jim

[Gene]

Originally Posted by LNav.VNav

Hi Gene et al,

I've got a Maytag PSB2151GRW, and I think I've got a bad defrost heater. It is melting ice, but I don't hear the sizzling sound you talk about. It will be good for a while but it seems to get behind when the humidity is high and the door doesn't get closed. The timer seems to be working okay (I hear it ticking and it does kick on periodically on its own, but I was debating on replacing it also since I'm working on it. I know they aren't co-located :-(

Does it sound like I'm on the right track?

Jim

Jim,

I do not think the heater is bad as long as it's melting ice. If there is not much snow or ice, that sizzling sound can not be heard.

A frost build up inside the freezer during the high humidity time is pretty normal, especially if the door is not closed properly. You have to keep the doors under control.

According to the information you posted I do not think it needs any repairs so far.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG PSB2151GRW Ref - Sxs | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[Uncas]

I have a GE model GTS18FBSARWW. The fridge is not cold but the freezer is. I have heavy frosting on the evaporator.

The defrost timer is working. I have ordered a new heater and thermostat while I defrost the unit. Any tips for replacing the heater elemtent? I appears to be behind the evaporator. I don't want to damage anything taking it out. What has to be disconnected to remove the evaporator?

Thanks,
Uncas

[Uncas]

There is a heat shield that was above the heater that fell out when I removed the heater. It is not on the parts diagram. Where does this shield clip in?

Thanks,
Uncas

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Uncas

There is a heat shield that was above the heater that fell out when I removed the heater. It is not on the parts diagram. Where does this shield clip in?

Thanks,
Uncas

Unfortunately I did not work with such models. Maybe someone else on the forum can help you better.

Gene.

[abcblah]

Hey Gene!

I have a GE GSS25XSRESS model. The refridgerator would frost up in the back and I guess that is whats making the fridge not cold enough. But then it comes back on again whenever it feels like and turns off again whenever. I am just having a little trouble finding the defrost timer that you have mentioned. So I was wondering it you can help me locate it so I can test it right away.

Thank you

[governor]

Hi Gene
I have to give you credit, the ammount of help and time you give here is commendable! great work.
I have a 2 year old whirlpool ET1PHKXPQ07 Top Freezer with added icemaker, freezer is 5 degrees and fridge between 40-47. Seems like Very little air flowing into fridge, defrost circuit does work(when I was checking it), when compressor and fan shuts off I hear whining sounds and water dripps into evaporator pan under fridge(about 1/2 inch of water in pan). I replaced the cold control thermostat and waited 24 hours..same temps. It seems like everything is working the way it should (at least when I watched it) is it possible I have an intermittent defrost problem? Not sure what else could be going on? Any suggestions? One other note..I changed the thermostat because when I tapped on control knob i could get the compressor and fan to turn on but I see the defrost timer is inside that cover also, could the contacts be sticking inside it stopping the compressor circuit from turning on?

edit: Just to be sure, tonight I removed the back panel of the freezer and checked for frost, there was only a light covering of frost so I turned the timer clockwise and on the first click nothing happened so I kept turning it, on the second click the fan and compressor shut off and the heating element came on and melted all the frost from the coils, I must say this thing gets REALLY hot! Anyway I know for sure my defrost heating element is working ok, is it normal for nothing to happen on the first click of the timer? The heating element actually heated up the entire freezer it got so hot? is it supposed to get this hot? even though heating element does come on and eventually shust off could the thermostat on it be bad?
Thanks
John

[nicehose]

hey gene,

seems you are the college of knowlege on this stuff..i am thankfull for that.

ive got a GE DSS25PFMDWW..

HERE THE PROB..I AM A NOVICE WHEN IT COME TO CHECKING CONTINUITY OF THERMOSTAT AND HEATER...IM ABOUT CERTIAN MY PROBLEM IS MY ADAPTIVE DEFROST BOARD..(COLD FREEZER , WARM FRIDGE , ICED OVER COILS) DUE TO A NEIGHBORS LIGHTNING STRIKE (MY GARAGE DOOR OPENERS FRIED) IM SURE THIS IS 1 +1 STUFF , BUT WHERE DO I PUT MY LEADS FROM METER TO EVAL HEATER AND THERM...BEFOR I REPLACE $100 BOARD THX

[Gene]

Originally Posted by abcblah

Hey Gene!

I have a GE GSS25XSRESS model. The refridgerator would frost up in the back and I guess that is whats making the fridge not cold enough. But then it comes back on again whenever it feels like and turns off again whenever. I am just having a little trouble finding the defrost timer that you have mentioned. So I was wondering it you can help me locate it so I can test it right away.

Thank you

There is no defrost timer in this refrigerator. Defrost cycle among all other futures controls by the main control board (#801 on the diagram). You can find the instructions on the page 3 of this thread.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSS25XSRESS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.