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Well, I took the back off of the freezer. The evaporator coils don't really look there is much ice on

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Old 08-25-2010, 10:37 AM
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Well, I took the back off of the freezer. The evaporator coils don't really look there is much ice on them. There is something in the upper R corner that has a bit of frost on it, but is easily knocked off. I'm not sure what it is. It has a bit of plastic wrapped around it. When looking at the break down diagram, I see the defrost thermostat, but not this piece. I'll try to post a picture. The fan in the freezer is not turning. Is there a way to cycle/test the fan to see if it will spin?

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Originally Posted by Gene View Post
uwansumadis,

The first thing I would do is remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how is the evaporator is covered with snow and/or ice and if the fan is somehow blocked. Post the results.

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Good luck.

Gene.

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  #992 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2010, 11:09 AM
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I tested the fan motor for continuity as described on the Acme how to guide and it read 3.3 ohms. Does this mean the motor is bad because it doesn't read 0?

Last edited by uwansumadis : 08-25-2010 at 11:32 AM.
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  #993 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2010, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwansumadis View Post
Well, I took the back off of the freezer. The evaporator coils don't really look there is much ice on them. There is something in the upper R corner that has a bit of frost on it, but is easily knocked off. I'm not sure what it is. It has a bit of plastic wrapped around it. When looking at the break down diagram, I see the defrost thermostat, but not this piece. I'll try to post a picture. The fan in the freezer is not turning. Is there a way to cycle/test the fan to see if it will spin?
Looks like there are two problems: the sealed system is low on Freon and the fan motor is bad.

The fan motor is easy to replace yourself, but the sealed system problem must be fixed by a pro and it can be $300 or more. I'm not sure if this fridge is worth it.

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Old 08-26-2010, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Looks like there are two problems: the sealed system is low on Freon and the fan motor is bad.

The fan motor is easy to replace yourself, but the sealed system problem must be fixed by a pro and it can be $300 or more. I'm not sure if this fridge is worth it.

Gene.
How can you tell that the system is low on Freon?
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:11 PM
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I have a Kitchen Aid KSRP25FSMS00 that has the same warm refrigerator problem as everyone else here. It is 4 yrs. old (though we've only been in this house with it for 2 yrs.) In those 2 years I never thought it was cold enough, but we just got by. Last December it really went out, called a repair person who said we needed a new control panel and evaporator motor. Both parts were not in until the end of March! So, new parts are installed (along with repairing cracks to the case) and it still is the same - on a good day the lowest it will go is 40. But then the temp will slowly rise until no cold air is coming through the diffuser (right now we are at 50). It will keep warming up until no air at all is coming through. Then after about 24 hours I hear a draining sound and sure enough the temp goes back down. Not wanting to be charged for another repair visit I started reading and learning and got to this forum. So I changed the thermistor, cleaned the condenser coils and checked the evaporator coils - they seem quite bare (no thin layer of snow) but with a small chunk of ice around evap. motor (the fan is blowing well.) I don't want to put much more money into it (even though it is quite new.) I would appreciate any thoughts - a diffuser? a freon leak? Or tell me to give up and go get that cool Samsung French Door model I've looked at! Thank you so much!

Carol
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwansumadis View Post
How can you tell that the system is low on Freon?
Normally the evaporator coils should be about 100% covered with thin snow.

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Old 08-26-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by calander View Post
...checked the evaporator coils - they seem quite bare (no thin layer of snow) but with a small chunk of ice around evap. motor (the fan is blowing well.)...
Carol,

Sounds like the sealed system is low on Freon or the compressor has low capacity. If the refrigerator is less than 5 years old, the sealed system is still under the manufacturer warranty and Whirlpool has to fix it with no charge to you. If you do not have prove of purchase, they should go by the manufacturing date (serial number).

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Old 08-26-2010, 08:11 PM
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Gene, Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. Whirlpool has the date of purchase which is less than 5 years. I'm going to try a different authorized repair place and hopefully they will get it right. Thank you!

Carol
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:39 PM
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You are welcome Carol. Keep us posted.

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Old 09-13-2010, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
bohemian,

There is no defrost timer in your fridge. The defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge.

Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost heater" terminal (J9) on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.

If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.

If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the defrost thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity.

If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced.

- The part number for the main control board is AP3950129

- The part number for the defrost heater is AP3183868

- The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP3884317

- The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407

Gene.
Hi Gene,

Thanks for directing me here. I know its been a while, but I now have the fridge apart. The control board in the back has been tested and looked ok, I now have removed the defrost heater and thermostat. I am a real novice with a multimeter. In audible mode, the thermo beeps and the heater makes no noise, though they both show positive readings in digital (numeric) mode. The thermo shows varying readings that go up as 13 then back to zero. The heater's numeric reading fluctuates mostly between 3 and 4 without zeroing out. I think but am not sure this means the heater needs to be replaced? Please educate me.

Thanks-
-Rene
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