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-   -   GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement. (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html)

Gene 01-08-2008 07:15 PM

GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.
 
Unplug the refrigerator before going further!

Disassemble procedure:

1. Remove the four ” ice maker bracket screws located at the four corners of the bracket.

2. Remove the two ” ice dispenser drive mounting bracket screws and remove the brackets.

3. Remove the two ” upper evaporator fan ductwork screws.

4. Unlock the tabs and remove the lower evaporator fan ductwork.

5. Remove the four ” evaporator cover screws and remove the cover.

6. Remove the two ” upper evaporator fan duct work screws located at the lower portion of the ductwork.

7. Using a small flat screwdriver, unlock the tabs for the ice maker and dispenser cables.

8. Slide the upper fan ductwork out.

9. Disconnect the evaporator fan wiring harness.


To test the evaporator fan motor skip to the test procedure, otherwise proceed further.


10. Remove the ” screw for the evaporator fan ground wire.

11. Remove the two ” evaporator fan bracket mounting screws located at either side of the bracket.

12. Remove the evaporator fan assembly.

NOTE: The evaporator thermistor must be replaced when replacing the fan.


The evaporator fan motor test procedure:

1. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board.

2. Warm up the freezer thermistor to 70F and set the temperature controls to middle settings.

3. Reconnect the power.

4. Check for 13 VDC from the red to the white wire and between 8 to 13 VDC from the white to the yellow wire at the evaporator fan connector.

5. If there is correct voltage for both, then the evaporator fan motor has to be replaced.

6. If the voltage is incorrect, then the main control board has to be replaced.

7. If the voltage is incorrect, check the resistance between the white to the red wire and the white to the yellow wire. If it’s less than 1K ohm, the evaporator fan motor is shorted and has to be replaced.

Best regards.
Gene.

richappy 01-13-2008 02:02 AM

As an additional note, if the evaporator motor voltages are bad, it's a good idea to replace both the mother board and the motor. If the evaporator motor bearings are bad, add a round slinger/umbrella to the new motor shaft to prevent moisture damage to the new motor bearings. You can make one out of semi-soft plastic that is round and symmetrical.

richappy 01-13-2008 02:04 AM

As an additional note, if the evaporator motor voltages are bad, it's a good idea to replace both the mother board and the motor;mother board evaporator voltages fail from failing evaporator motors. If the evaporator motor bearings are bad, add a round slinger/umbrella to the new motor shaft to prevent moisture damage to the new motor bearings. You can make one out of semi-soft plastic that is round and symmetrical. The SM999 motor kits have one in the box.

richappy 01-15-2008 02:03 PM

Evaporator motor checkout
 
Per. the South Jersey Appliance data sheet, you can go to the motherboard in the back and measure both resistance and voltage and frequency at the J2 connector. This schematic is generic so refer to the fridg's schematic to confirm wiring and double check with wire colors at the evaporator motor.
J2 pin 3 to J2 pin 4 about 12.3 vdc @ high speed,8 vdc at medium speed,4vdc at low speed. J2 pin 3 to J2 pin 1, 220 hz high speed, 160 hz medium speed, 100hz low speed. I would assume opening the fridg door would give a high speed signal. Resistance should be about 2K. I believe the signal is a square wave with a dc component. A analog meter will not give the same readings. A digital meter reads RMS value, analog an average.
For units with the annoying fan noises, changing frequencies/voltages will confirm a bad motherboard.
This evaporator motor is more complex than any other and it is recommended to replace whenever the motherboard voltages fail. Simple resistance checks of the motor are probably not useful. Usually a zero volts output cause is a blown resistor near the J2 connector.
Burned apart one of these evaporator motors today. This particular motor had bad bearings from water damage. It is a simple 6 pole, symetrical induction motor with a slight shading to force it to start in the right direction. This shading comes from one set of wires, the other must be a variable duty cycle square wave as this motor is not a permanent magnet dc motor.The variable duty cycle square wave provides different controlled power pulses that effectively vary the speed just like a domestic fan motor speed control device. The starting torque is probably low and frictional looses from the bad bearings probably stalled the motor and the excess current draw blew the motherboard. It is a good idea to place a slinger on the motor shaft below the fan blade to prevent this type of failure.
For the South Jersey schematic crunch in Google" junk GE GSS20IEMbww new motherboard" Make sure to enter it exactly as shown with the same capital letters.
Also, you can remove the three pin connector for the compressor/defrost power and jumper the ( these pins are identified on the motherboard)power input pin J11 to either the compressor J9 or the defrost circuit J8 to activate independent of the motherboard. Generally, if the heater draws current as measured at the jumper, the heater and defrost thermostat are ok,and the motherboard is bad.
With this schematic, you can measure all the thermistor resistances and input/ output voltages.
Also, I just realized this board contains the auger motor and auger solenoid drivers and the water dispenser solenoid. So, if these fail, it's the motherboard. The triac drivers for the condenser motor and the evaporator motor are rather small and rated less than 1/2 amp so they blow real easy whenever these motors go bad.
Also, I found out the dispenser water solenoid and auger drivers are small relays on this board, but the encoder signal inputs are never defined anywhere!
UPDATE 7-18-09 South Jersey schematic no longer available, Refer to fridg schematic, sorry, out of my control.

nanna1047 09-13-2008 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richappy (Post 11455)
As an additional note, if the evaporator motor voltages are bad, it's a good idea to replace both the mother board and the motor. If the evaporator motor bearings are bad, add a round slinger/umbrella to the new motor shaft to prevent moisture damage to the new motor bearings. You can make one out of semi-soft plastic that is round and symmetrical.

We purchased a GE side by side with water and ice in the door from a friend. It is less the 5 yrs old. We have water leaking from the bottom frezzer door and a 1/4 ice build up in bottom of frezzer. If we take some of the ice out daily we don't see it leaking. The water and ice work fine and the frezzer is working great. Any ideas.

libertyappl 09-13-2008 07:13 PM

nanna,
that sounds like a frozen or clogged drain line
Nat

richappy 09-14-2008 02:10 AM

I use a turkey baster and hot water to defrost these. Also, you can install a 12 gauge copper wire around the defrost heater and down the drain to prevent frost, but the cause is usually a partially clogged condenser or freezer temperature settings making it too cold.

danw 11-03-2008 12:03 PM

Evaporator fan motor test
 
Is this the same test procedure for Model DSS25PFMDCC.

Thanks

abadfish66 11-03-2008 12:26 PM

Danw....Please post your serial# and the symptoms you are having...Thanks

Lisa J 12-21-2008 12:50 PM

GE Refrig making "whine" noise
 
My GE refrig (GSH model) starting making a "whine" noise yesterday. It seems to be working fine. The noise actually seems to be coming from the freezer section behind the ice maker. We shut the ice maker off and the sound continued. We unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in and the noise was gone. But the noise is back today. We unplugged again, and the noise stopped again.
Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance!
Lisa J


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