[richappy]

If a fan only switch, there are only two wires to it, just short them out. You can order the switch later. Use a butter knif or small screwdiver to pry the switch out.

[sujsama]

Hi Richappy,
I was able to remove the switch. I cut the black wires and attached them together to close the circuit to see if the door open light will shut off. It still shows as the door being open. What can be the problem now?

Best,
Sujit

[richappy]

You removed the wrong switch, gotta remove the other one that controls the evaporator fan motor.

[weandrade]

Originally Posted by Gene

Unplug the refrigerator before going further!
The evaporator fan motor test procedure:

1. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board.

2. Warm up the freezer thermistor to 70°F and set the temperature controls to middle settings.

3. Reconnect the power.

4. Check for 13 VDC from the red to the white wire and between 8 to 13 VDC from the white to the yellow wire at the evaporator fan connector.

5. If there is correct voltage for both, then the evaporator fan motor has to be replaced.

6. If the voltage is incorrect, then the main control board has to be replaced.

7. If the voltage is incorrect, check the resistance between the white to the red wire and the white to the yellow wire. If it’s less than 1K ohm, the evaporator fan motor is shorted and has to be replaced.

Best regards.
Gene.

Dear Gene,

The evaporator fan motor from my GS model doesn't run.

When you say on item #2, you mean the thermistor that is in the same conector of the evaporator fan, OK? In this case it should be connected to perform the test, right?

I put a thermometer inside the freezer and the temperature was around 22ºC (71.6ºF). The temperature control were previously set to 5.

Once I reconnected the power I got 13.3 VDC from RED to WHITE and 0.4 VDC from the WHITE to YELLOW. I've tried with the evaporator motor plugged and unplugged. The results were the same.

The resistance from the WHITE to RED on the motor is 1.65 KOhm.

Should I conclude that my main board should be replaced?
My evaporator fan motor is fine?

Thank you all for the very valuable tips and help,

Wander

[Gene]

Wander,

The main control board has gone bad and it's better to replace the evaporator fan motor at the same time to prevent possible damage to the new main board. If you need the correct part numbers, post the complete model number of the refrigerator.

Gene.

[weandrade]

Hi Gene!

Glad you answered. The refrigerator model number is GSS25LGMF WW. The fan motor that is there is WR60X100430. I think this part was substituted for another code by GE.
I've found a resistor (R95) burned in the main board. It's open. It should be 2,1 ohms 0,25W. I'll replace it but I think another component can be burned the resistor. I don't have the schematic so it's difficult to find it. But I'll try this shot and see what happens.
Send me please the new part numbers. I'm brazilian. I'll have to import these parts and it will take some time and money.

Thank you very much and God bless you all for so much help.

Wander

[Gene]

You are welcome Wander.

You are right - GE has redesigned the evaporator fan motor and changed the part number.

If you have someone in US who can order the parts from Appliance Parts Pros and then ship them to you, you will save some $$$ because of their very low prices.

- The evaporator fan motor Part number: AP3875639

- The main control board Part number: AP4436216

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSS25LGMFWW Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[weandrade]

Hi Gene. I've replaced the resistor but, it was burning again. So I cut it off and turn the refrigerator on again. I'll order a new main board and a new fan motor.

Thank you very much.

Wander

[Gene]

You are welcome Wander. Keep us posted.

Gene.

[knwollen]

I have a GE side by side GSS2010EMBWW that was determined to be one of GE's moisture control problem refrigerators. My problems started with a loud evaporator motor so I replaced it but the motor continued to make noise. After many calls to GE they had the doors, evaporator panel, ice bucket and motherboard replaced pn WR55x10552) in June of 2007. None of this has stopped the evaporator fan from making noise. I think I saw earlier in this thread a referance to the need to replace both the motherboard and fan to stop the noise. Another site called for a new motherboard pn WR55x10942, which would be the second revision to the original motherboard. I have emailed this info to GE and there response is for me to call them.

Before letting GE possibly lead me down a path. Will replacing the motherboard with the updated one and fan fix the problem? Also how far from the top of shaft should the top of the fan be?