[SpartanRookie]

I found the thermister today, and also took apart the damper door cover, and saw the door open/close when I adjusted the dial temp settings. It seems that the door is working properly, but it wants to stay open, unless I tune the fridge dial down to 1, it will stay open. I only found the 1 thermister up top by the damper door, I still haven't found any others. I don't really know how to test it, but I went ahead and ordered it, since I can't see what else would make the damper door open so frequently. I will see what replacing the thermister does. I should have it Thursday to test.

[wertzee]

Is this evaporator fan motor issue causing my problem?

My GE profile Arctica, model psc23pssd ss isn't cooling the freezer sufficiently. We first noticed this when every few weeks our ice would just about completely melt. Then the ice would build back up, then melt again after a few weeks. Then we noticed the ice cream was getting soft, and the ice problem got worse.

I had a guy out who first told me I needed to replace a sensor, then he said I should just replace the whole board. I would definitely rather try to replace a sensor first to see if that fixes the problem. By the way, at one point he had a panel pulled off in the freezer and I saw a bunch of ice build up on the coils.

According to GE the arctica refrigerators have two sensors in the freezer and it says one is visible. Which one should I replace or should I go ahead and replace both? And would this possibly be a job I could do myself? If so, how can I find out the model numbers I need to order the part online?

Kevin J. Wertz
Garner, NC

[richappy]

Re-post this problem with the model # in the box so every one can view it.

[wertzee]

Ric not sure what you are asking me to do. I don't see a separate box for model number on the post reply screen.

[richappy]

Just start a new thread including make and model.

[richappy]

The condenser motor gets 13 VDC from J2 connector on the motherboard. Measure between pin 8 and 5 You also should get this voltage at the motor connector between the red and yellow wires.
Pin 3 wire to pin 8 motor connector wires red and white is an optional winding, should be 13 volts
Both windings should measure about 1.7 Kohm.
The evaporator motor wiring
J2 pin 8 red wire to pin 3 white J2 pin 3 12 volts, around 1.7 kohm
J2 pin 4 yelow wire to pin 1 blue wire 6.3 volt square wave also 1.7kohm

[richappy]

Applianceman has posted a very good test for these motors. Just go to web site GE Refrigerator Fan Motor Diagnostics

[sujsama]

Hi Richappy

Please let me know if I am diagnosing theproblem properly or is it more complex than just a fixing a switch.

The fan above the freezer on my GE Model BISB42EKC Side by side Built In is not turning. It doesnt seem to be getting an electrical current. When I hard wire it to an outlet is seems to spin very fast. I am not why it is not getting an electrical current other than that the door is always showing that it is open even when I hold down the switch behind the door. If the fridge thinks the door is open it is my understanding that the fan will not turn on. I could not remove the switch to replace it. It seems very hard to remove.

I have two questions:
1. Is this a more complex issue than just getting a new switch?
2. How do I remove and replace the switch? It does not come out easily.

PS. The Condensor and Compressor seem to be working fine. They both turn on when I turn the dials to the on positions.

Your help will be greatly appreciated. I called PSEG and before even looking at the fridge they wanted to sell me a new one. I know this unit can be fixed.

Thanks in Advance
Suj

[richappy]

.You will need a meter to check things, seems like the cradle switch is bad. Seems like you have two switches, one for the light and one for the fan. Of course, you can allways short it out to get the fan motor running; will need to refer to the schematic behind the kick panel.

[sujsama]

Hi Richappy,
Thank you for your fast response. You are correct there is one for the light and one for the fan. I cant seem to remove the cradle switch so easily. I tried pulling it out but it seems like there is a plastic lip which doesnt allow it to be pulled out easily. I tried to pull it in an angle but this doesnt seem to work either. The face plate seems to be sealed as well. I thought to get to it from above and behind but there isnt any access. Do you have a recommendation?

Please also explain what you mean by shorting it out to get the fan running. I dont understand. Am I correct to assume that the fan does not switch on when the door is open?

Thanks
Suj