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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.

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How do I determine why the compressor isnt running? Looking back on it I think things stopped pretty suddenly. We

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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:03 PM
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How do I determine why the compressor isnt running? Looking back on it I think things stopped pretty suddenly. We noticed some water on the floor under the freezer and assumed the kids must have left the door ajar. The next day we figured out that it wasn't cooling at all and the temp was slowly rising in both freezer and FF areas. I believe the water was from the ice melting in the tray cause when I removed it it made a mess everywhere. I have a multimeter and am pretty handy but I dont know where to start or exactly what to look for. It seems to me that either the compressor motor isnt being told to turn on (motherboard or temp sensor) of something in its circuit is bad (relay, motor etc.). If the coolant leaked out wouldnt the compressor still run? And if it was a slow leak wouldnt we have noticed things getting warmer over a longer period of time?

Phil

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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:04 PM
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We were posting at the same time. I will check what you asked now and be back with an answer shortly.

Thank you.
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:38 PM
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Gene,

The mainboard in my unit looks somewhat different than the link/picture you send. Also, the connector for J8, J9 and J11 is completely different and it is not clear how to get it disconnected. I have tried but I dont want to force anything. Here is a picture of what the connector I have. There seem to be 3 "L shaped blades" that come out of the mainboard and a plastic connector with the wires attached to it.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:53 PM
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If you will look at the picture closer, you can see exactly the same terminals on the right side. Just pull out the wire connected to the J8 terminal, holding for the plastic piece.

If you don't feel comfortable to do it, then you have to call a pro to do it for you.

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Old 10-10-2012, 04:45 PM
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Gene,

I will give it a try. Does the wire come loose from the plastic connector (leaving the other wires connected to the plastic connector and therefore to the mainboard)? Or do I have to remove the plastic connector (and all 3 wires) and then remove the single wire?
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:18 PM
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Gene,

I have made some progress. I simply removed the mainboard from its mounts and there is a burn spot on the back. I traced it to the J11 terminal. On the front it is the black "box" that is just below the "thing" with the copper wires wrapped around it.

So the main board needs to be replaced, but what caused it and do I need to look for something else too?
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:05 PM
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Gene,

I still cant figure out how to get the J8, J9 and J11 wires disconnected from the mainboard. All the others were a piece of cake but these are a completely different connection. Can you tell me if the plastic connector comes off with all 3 wires attached (which is what I assume)? Most connectors seem to have some kind of latch or catch you have to manipulate and then they come apart. I cant find one on this.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:41 PM
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Usually these 3 wires are separated but in your refrigerator they are combined in a single plug. Hold the plug and pull it out. The old board is piece of junk so don't worry to damage it.

This control board has been redesigned a few times by GE. The control board in your refrigerator is the very first version and that's why it looks different.

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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2012, 07:39 PM
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Gene,

Thank you very much for helping me with this. Is it only the control board that needs to be replaced or do I need to check something else as well?
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:02 PM
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I don't see anything else at this time.

Gene.
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