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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.

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thanks for the info.. and I don't mean to be stubborn but is there any instance in which the motherboard

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Old 03-01-2011, 05:01 PM
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thanks for the info.. and I don't mean to be stubborn but is there any instance in which the motherboard could decide to fail without the motor being bad?.. I understand the point about a failing motor causing too much draw basically on the motherboard and so if it is in fact a failing motor that could and would cause the motherboard to fail as well. but what I'm asking is simply do these motherboards fail often even if the motor is not failing?

Thanks again!

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2011, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dochera View Post
...do these motherboards fail often even if the motor is not failing?...
The answer is - Yes. A faulty main control boards for these GE refrigerators has been well known ongoing problem for many years. GE has redesigned them a few times and hopefully the last time they fixed it.

You can find more troubleshooting instructions on the first page of this thread.


- The main control board Part number: AP4436216

Part number: AP4436216




There can be two different types of the evaporator fan motors used in your refrigerator. The difference made by the thermistor which can be wired into the motor harness plug or it can be wired separate. You have to verify which one is used in you refrigerator before you'll order one.

- The evaporator fan motor without thermistor Part number: AP3875639

Part number: AP3875639



- The evaporator fan motor with thermistor Part number: AP3191003

Part number: AP3191003




Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSS26LSRESS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 03-02-2011, 07:16 AM
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Again I want to say thanks for the info as I really appreciate it! I guess what I'm asking is besides the motherboard (which I'm convinced needs to be replaced and I will be purchasing) is there any other component other than the evap fan that might be the secondary culprit.. the reason I ask is since I did hear the evap fan turn on several times during my cleaning of the coil I'm tempted to think the evap MOTOR is fine and maybe the motherboard just blew out for some other reason...

for example, is there also supposed to be a fan inside the fresh food tower? I read some things that seem to have mentioned it before. but if there is one back there, I dont think I've ever heard or felt any sort of fan blowing on the fridge side.... (especially if its as obvious as it is when the evap fan is on) could it be that fan motor instead of the evap fan that actually needs replacing besides the motherboard as well......

Thanks

Last edited by dochera : 03-02-2011 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
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Standard procedure is to replace both the evaporator motor and the motherboard. If you just replace the motherboard, the failing evaporator motor will just blow it out again.
My original Mother Board on my GE GSS20IEMBWW was designed to turn off the evaporator motor when I opened the door (I assume) The two replacement boards that have been put in do not do this. My GE has a moisture problem in the freezer section (water droplets all over the bottom side of the icemaker motor) and GE supplied a new MB, doors and evaporator cover which didn't help. Additionally I upgraded to a third mother board and evaporator motor and I still had moisture problems and a loud motor caused by the iceing.

Other people I know have had their evaporator motors freeze up on them from excess moisture and had to keep defrosting them with a hair dryer. This could be what is happening to yours, creating the warm upper sections because no air is being blown.

One person in this forum suggested that my ice maker may be over filling, so if you see water droplets all over the inside of the freezer, try running without the icemaker on.

If the problem seems to be ice related and you don't use the icemaker, then even a new MB and fan may not solve your problem.

Good luck, I gave up and replaced mine.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:52 AM
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thanks for the info knwollen! actually though we never used the ice maker becasue here in phoenix the tap water tastes like doodoo! we did buy ice and put it into the ice maker to dispense it from the door but the first time it melted and destroyed my freezer I decided not to use it at all until I solve the issue.. so thats not it in my case... but I'll keep it in mind for the future anyone know about the fresh food fan I was talking about in my last post or if that could have caused the MB issue? oh ya and an update since yesterday's saga.. for several hours after I did what I did in my first post the EVAP fan ran fine but the fridge still seemed sort of warm at the top, and again I heard no fan on the fridge side. but I left it alone thinking it just needed more time to cool down.. then last night I noticed the EVAP fan had shu off again? I figured maybe its supposed to so I didn't bother with it. then this morning the EVAP fan was running again and the freezer is nice and cold.. but the fridge still seemd wam up top.. unusual becasue every other time this problem arose the freezer and fridge both got warm up top at the same time......
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:16 PM
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I am not a technician but, I have worked on mine for 8 years and read a lot of forums. In my GE side by side there is no fan on the fresh food side. Above the top shelf on the left side/freezer divider wall, of the fresh food section, there is a door that is supposed to open when the evaporator fan is running. This supplies the fresh food section with it's cold air. If this is not opening when the evaporator fan is running it could be bad.

Also, but I am not sure, there may be a thermistor on the fresh food side that may have cause a problem with this side cooling.

When the refrigerator does not need to cool anymore, the evaporator fan stops running. Also, depending on the amount of cooling required, the evaporator fan can run at multiple speeds since it is a DC motor. Mine made noise at the higher speed.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:09 PM
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...anyone know about the fresh food fan I was talking about in my last post..
There is no such fan in your refrigerator, but the problem can be a faulty gate in the damper control (#460 on the diagram)

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Old 03-02-2011, 06:12 PM
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ok cool thanks for the info guys I guess I'll try just the evap motor and motherboard for now and see if that solves it. I'd hate to think I had so many things go out all at once so maybe the motherboard just isn't acting right and causing all the issues at once.. thanks GE lol.... at least I have a backup fridge and the lower half of this one still works til I get it fixed.... funny I have and old brown miniature kenmore fridge thats old as dirt and still runs like a champ.. looks like hell but won't die. what happened to the good ol' days when everything wasnt disposable..

Thanks I'll order the parts and see what happens then leave an update for anyone in the future that has the same issue.. hopefully the update will be that everything works


Oh by the way... what does "turbo cool" do? I press it periodically just for fun when the fridge isn't at its best but it seems as though it basically doesn't do anything at all except make the LED next to it brighter for a few hours....
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:23 AM
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ok so here is my update:

I ordered the board from appliancepartspros.com recieved it in 1 day with overnight shipping (very reasonable) against everyone's advice I did not order the fan motor.. (don't start hating on me! lol) I just took the risk that ya maybe the board will blow out again and I'll be out the $$ but maybe not and the board is the easy part to change so if it blows out again I guess I'll know why. and take my lumps for not listening.. but anyway..

so I received te board and swapped it out in about 5 minutes.. fired up the fridge and everything turned on (evap motor) then I turned the settings to "0" for off with the fridge door open. and then switched it back on while listening closely to the tower in the fresh food side. I heard the damper door moving as it adjusted itself to the default setting 5/5 YAY.. so here i am now 2 days later and both sides are back to the way they should be! nice and cold and everything seems to be working great!!!!

Thanks for all your help guys!
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:15 PM
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You are welcome. We are glad it's up and running.

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