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I get water to the water dispenser but no water is going to the ice maker. I checked the solenoid valves (there are 2) and read 340 ohms on one of the valves, and 181 ohms on the other. This does not seem to be right, seems they both should read the same. Do I need a new solenoid valve? Thanks.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/29/2012(UTC) Posts: 4
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Originally Posted by: ffllooyydd I get water to the water dispenser but no water is going to the ice maker. I checked the solenoid valves (there are 2) and read 340 ohms on one of the valves, and 181 ohms on the other. This does not seem to be right, seems they both should read the same. Do I need a new solenoid valve? Thanks. After searching on the internet I finally found the answer to my question. Acceptable Ohms on the Water Solenoid Valves is anywhere from 150-350 ohms. So mine are OK (I read 181 on one valve and 340 ohms on the other). Original problem was the Fresh Food Compartment was way too warm, but the freezer was working great. There was no ice build-up on the freezer rear wall, but there was a little frost (not bad though). I checked the damper between the freezer compartment and the fresh food side. It was open, so I should have gotten cold air in the fresh food side. I then reasoned the evaporator fan was not moving the air from the freezer to the fresh food side. There was no air coming through the damper. I then removed the bottom crisper bucket and found I was getting cold air through the bottom vent. That contradicts everything I know about refrigeration (I am a certified tech). Cold air drops, so I should have gotten cold air coming in at the top through the damper. Seems GE changed designs on this model (GSS221FRF CC), or, ice behind the rear cover of the refer was blocking air flow. Then there was Water from the dispenser, but no Ice. That led me on to check the water solenoid valves (which are with-in spec). The next time I checked the back of the freezer wall it was a sheet of ice. I unplugged the unit overnight and the next morning I removed the rear panel of the inside freezer compartment. I then removed and checked the Defrost Heating Element. It was burnt black. I ohmed it and read that it was open. I bent the retaining pins back and lightly pulled on the elements in the glass tube. Voila, the element was broken, thus giving me the open load (infinity). I replaced it with a new element and plugged the unit back in. That day the ice maker started working and everything worked fine. Diagnosis: The water inlet tube in the freezer must have been frozen (ice build-up on the evaporator that was not noticed at first because only a light coat of frost was present)(later turned into a sheet of ice). Conclusion: Beware of ice buildup on the back freezer wall. The defrost cycle only comes on every 16 hours on this model. Ice on the evaporator was blocking air flow to the fresh food compartment. The defrost element was defective and not allowing for the daily defrost cycle, which iced up the evaporator and blocked air flow, and froze the water inlet to the ice maker. Water valves should be 150-350 ohms, anything less than 150 ohms is a dead valve.
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