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Hello, I have a problem with my freezer unit. Within a month, my freezer evaporator has frozen completely. The first

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Old 01-12-2012, 08:01 AM
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Default Whirlpool Gold
Model Number: GX2SHBXVY00   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello,

I have a problem with my freezer unit. Within a month, my freezer evaporator has frozen completely. The first shot, the condenser was full of dust. I cleaned it all and then defrosted the evaporator and then he continued to work properly. Yesterday, it froze again. This time the condenser was very clean. Is it possible that this is a bad disposition of my food in the freezer that prevents proper air circulation? I saw that there was a component of the internal duct of refrigerant. I think this is a thermistor to allow defrost. It is this component that distributes electricity to the defrost element. Is this element is fed 24 volts AC or not? Yesterday when I was testing, I had 24 volts AC and I was frozen.

Can you help me?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2012, 06:41 AM
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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GX2SHBXVY00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for a tech sheet.

Yesterday, it froze again. This time the condenser was very clean.

Dirty condenser coils will not cause the evaporator to ice up.

Is it possible that this is a bad disposition of my food in the freezer that prevents proper air circulation? I saw that there was a component of the internal duct of refrigerant. I think this is a thermistor to allow defrost
Since the unit ran good after a manual defrost I would say you do not have a circulation or a thermistor problem.
If it was circulation the food in the bottom of the unit would freeze and/or food at the top would be too warm.
If it was a thermistor problem then the temperatures would not be correct after the manual defrost.
The compressor would cycle on and off because it thinks the freezer is at the correct temperature when in reality it is to warm.


It is this component that distributes electricity to the defrost element.

No, the thermistor just tell the control board what the freezer temperature is.

Is this element is fed 24 volts AC or not? Yesterday when I was testing, I had 24 volts AC and I was frozen.
The heater runs off of 120 volts.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor turn off, you are in defrost.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the control board (jazz pcb) needs replacing, re: it is probably never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 10 in Section 8) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 14 in Section 8) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the control board toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf GX2SHB.pdf (425.8 KB, 25 views)
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