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I have water to the frig but am not getting water to the dispenser or ice maker. Please help with

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2009, 08:36 AM
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Default No Water
Model Number: KSRS25FGBL02   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have water to the frig but am not getting water to the dispenser or ice maker.

Please help with ideas.

Thank you,
why1


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2009, 10:36 AM
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disconnect the line to the water dispenser at the water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in and try the dispenser. if you hear the valve work but water doesn't come out, the valve is bad. If you don't hear the valve, the dispenser switch is bad.
If water did come out Your water line could be frozen in the door. You can disconnect the line under the unit before it goes into the door at the bottom hinge. Push the dispenser button and see if it comes out there. If it does leave the door open till it thaws.



The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze and stop up the tube. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

A strainer before the inlet valve can also get stopped up restricting flow
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:27 PM
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Default No Water

Woodchuckie,

Thank you for your quick response to my question. The line to the water dispenser - is this the cooper waterline feeding the valve or the water dispenser line to the left of the valve behind the cardboard like panel, it is a whitish clear tube? I can tell you now the ice and water lever on the door makes no sounds when depressed. As I look in the freezer at the water supply line which feeds the icemaker, it appears clean (not frozen).

Thank you,
why1
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:36 PM
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It's the plastic line. If you hear no noise from the valve it's not getting voltage. To be sure you can test if for continuity.
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:53 AM
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Woodchukie, Is the valve the unit just inside the frame that has one tube on the backside and two plastic tubes coming out of the bottom? It has four electrical posts on the top, the posts run out of two round plastic parts I would assume these are the valves. On each valve one black and one green is one post that has 2 wires and one that has one wire. The 2 wire posts have electric running to them 300 and 250. The single wires have no readings. Is there supposed to be electric in the single wires? Thanks
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:55 AM
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Hello Woodchuckie, let me start over. When I move the dispencer arm to get water or ice I get no responce. No water nor ice come through . No sound of either trying to work, nothing.Suggestions please.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:32 PM
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Default No water or ice to frig

Not getting water or ice from door dispenser. When pushing the lever fpr water or ice, no product/no sound levers are working, silent not hearing anything. Ice machine is not getting water to make ice either.

Sorry I am not able to find a response to my August 27th inquiry, so I am asking again. Would like to order whatever part I need asap.

Thanks....
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by why1 View Post
Not getting water or ice from door dispenser. When pushing the lever fpr water or ice, no product/no sound levers are working, silent not hearing anything. Ice machine is not getting water to make ice either.

Sorry I am not able to find a response to my August 27th inquiry, so I am asking again. Would like to order whatever part I need asap.

Thanks....

I can give some ideas, but giving you a definitive answer as to what part is bad is going to be rather tough. The below two parts come into play, along with the wiring going to and from the components they activate. I've also provided you a link to the wiring diagram which would be needed to do a proper diagnosis.

Part number: AP3131893

Part number: AP3131893


Part number: AP3086666

Part number: AP3086666


http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%202200279.pdf
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:54 AM
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Thank you Frank, not sure where either part would go. Could you please give me a call to talk about this . 18007825319. or should i just bite the bullet and have a repair service come to my home?
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