[lcaley]

Ice maker not making ice, no water. The solonoid are 110 volt, correct?? no voltage at it, did no check resistance. Water line is clear. Light is blinking red on the ice maker control, sometimes it goes to solid red. I would like to use voltage at dispenser solonoid to check ice maker solonoid, are they the same voltage?? If the solonoid is good where to next??

[Gene]

You have to have a simple multimeter to perform the ice maker troubleshooting.

The first thing I would do is swap the wires between the water dispenser and the ice maker solenoids, push the water release lever on the water dispenser and see if water will come into the ice maker. If it will then there is nothing wrong with the water valve and the water line is clear.

The next step is:

Remove the ice maker front cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.

If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post the results and the rest of the refrigerator model number.

Gene.

[lcaley]

Hi Gene,

Please give me a point of reference, where is the "front cover". I read another post yesterday and this is where I got stopped. I never received or lost material on the refrigerator. I found this nomenclature on a tag inside the refrigerator side, Model KSRS25ILWH02 Serial SM4537790 Manufacturer Date 11/02

LarryC

[Gene]

The front cover is shown as #18 on the diagram.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRS25ILWH02 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[lcaley]

Gene,

It looks as if I must remove the icemaker to get to front cover. It appears to be secured is a sliding tray by a single screw under the bottom, correct?

LarryC

[Gene]

I believe so.

Gene.

[lcaley]

Hi Gene,

This freezer is designed like my Harley, not designed to be worked on!!! I finally got the "front cover" off, N&L show 20 volts. Next I tested continuity of the heater Test Points H&N and read something in the neighborhood of 8K ohms (High) not the expected 60 - 75 ohms. This appears to point to a bad heater, can you confirm my diagnosis before I purchase a new mold (heater). I am uncertain because when I remove the control module (board with the motor on it) i test the two pins coming from the bottom of the mold it shows a very low resistance. Is the high resistance coming from something in the CM or the heater itself??

Thanks

LarryC