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GE refer not cooling correctly

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It has two glass heaters you may be able to see the heater burned out or broken.

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Old 07-02-2009, 05:08 PM
applianceman applianceman is offline
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It has two glass heaters you may be able to see the heater burned out or broken.
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:11 PM
gscraig gscraig is offline
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I'd like to do a little more diagnostics before I replace the part/s. I followed you link and read a little more about the problem, so I know I''m not done yet!

I would appreciate some more detailed instuctions. I have an meter, so that's not a problem.
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:14 PM
gscraig gscraig is offline
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I'd like to do some more diagnostics and then order the parts. I followed the link in your earlier reply, so I know I'm not done yet!

I have a meter if you would be kind enough to send me the testing instructions.

I'm very grateful that it's running again, now would not be a good time to replace it.
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:59 PM
applianceman applianceman is offline
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Above the evaporator coils you should see a plug that connects the thermostat and the heaters, unplug it. On this plug you should see two prongs together and one off to the side. Check for continuity between the to prongs that are together, it should read in the 20-50 ohm range. Normally if it is not open it is good. If not replace the heater assembly.

To check the thermostat check for continuity between the single prong and the one right beside it (pink wire). Assuming the thermostat is has had a chance to cool back down from you defrosting it you should get at reading close to 0 ohms. If not you can just replace the thermostat and save a few bucks but I recommend changing the heater assembly.

If these parts check ok the timer is most likely bad. It is located behind the control cover in the fresh food section #257 on your parts breakdown. But before you replace it turn it slowly until the refrigerator cuts off. Once the refrigerator cuts off the heater should come on and get red hot. If it does replace the timer. Note that you could do this first and if the heater gets red you know it is ok and no need to waste time checking it with an ohmmeter. but you need to wait until the thermostat gets cold enough to cut back in.

For do-it-yourself appliance repair help visit Appliance Repair Guide For All Major Home Appliances

Last edited by applianceman : 07-02-2009 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:02 AM
gscraig gscraig is offline
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Hello ApplianceMan,

I just turned the defrost time until the refrigerator cut out, then took off the freezer panel, and no red glow. This is assuming that I'm looking at the correct thing. It looks like a glass tube that is right under the freezer coils.

The tube looks kind of black, like it might be burned out. I only saw one tube, but you mentioned two?

It sounds like the timer is still ticking away, I'll let you know if the refrigerator dosn't start up again.

FYI, there is already a fair amount of frost buildup on the coils.

Thanks again for your help!

Last edited by gscraig : 07-07-2009 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 07-07-2009, 02:11 PM
richappy richappy is offline
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I would put your model # in this parts site and order the defrost thermostat and defrost heater.
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:32 PM
applianceman applianceman is offline
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At this point I agree replace the defrost heater the parts breakdown shows you have two heaters but the heater kit should come with both heaters and a thermostat.
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:03 AM
gscraig gscraig is offline
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Well, I've replaced the defrost heaters, I guess now time will tell. So far so good.

The replacement had 2 heater elements, while the original only had one. I called GE parts to confirm that this was correct.

I'd like to thank you all for your help with this. I saved a LOT of money repairing rather than replacing.
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