[richappy]

There is no diagnostic test for the board. In your case, the only recourse is to assume the new board is bad unless your damper door jamed closed.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by richappy

There is no diagnostic test for the board. In your case, the only recourse is to assume the new board is bad unless your damper door jamed closed.

So the best plan of attack is to remove the damper asm and check for damper jam before rattling the vendors' cage that sold me the board?

Is there a current check to verify the damper motor is good before or once removed?

Something wrong @ the damper seems to make sense. Either jammed or not receiving signal current.

AGAIN THANX!

[salmanblc]

If you have Warranty thn call Support. otherwise, do read Manual Book for Whcih Part is Clicking Type if not working..

[richappy]

The motors on these rarely fail. Open the fridg door and the freezer door. Push the fridg light switch closed and check for light from the damper. If no light, remove the cover and see if the damper door is jamed shut or blocked by ice. Manually open the door, if it closes, and you hear the damper motor run, you either have a bad damper thermistor or a bad board.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by richappy

The motors on these rarely fail.

Open the fridg door and the freezer door. Push the fridg light switch closed and check for light from the damper. If no light, remove the cover and see if the damper door is jamed shut or blocked by ice.

Manually open the door, if it closes, and you hear the damper motor run, you either have a bad damper thermistor or a bad board.

OK.

I completely removed the Damper Asm, not knowing what light to look for. I now realize the freezer compartment light via the cooling chute. The damper door is open (vertical position?). I then reinstalled the Asm and powered her up...

It was blowing cold air up through the chute opening (top of freezer compt). I then got really brave and plugged the Damper Motor connector back into the harness. No door movement. There is cooled air now being forced through the Damper Asm air outlets. There seems to be a small volume.

I have left it in stealth mode to see if the temp(s) drop in either or both compartments. I will report back.

I really appreciate your patience as it would be a B*T*C* to have to call in a repair person at this stage.

Is it possible that the evaporator is dust bound leading to a low forced air situation?

[richappy]

Seems like your evaporator is frozen, just remove the freezer back panel and verify frost pattern, probably all covered with heavy frost.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by richappy

Seems like your evaporator is frozen, just remove the freezer back panel and verify frost pattern, probably all covered with heavy frost.

I allowed the refrig to run and the temp(s) finally stabilized by morning. It has to be divine intervention...

Could it be the first go-around resulted in a frozen evaporator and the unplugging allowed it to defrost itself? Could there be a problem with the actual defrost system that I should monitor? The damper door is functional. It closed when box temp came close to temp setting.

Again, much thanks for your expertise.

[richappy]

I would monitor the freezer temperture to confirm good refrigeration.Freezer should get near 5 to 10 degrees.