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Ok let me give alittle recent history about this fridge, about a month ago it would constantly run and would

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Old 06-19-2009, 06:43 PM
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Default Estate Fridge, Lights on nobodys home
Model Number: TT18TKXKQ00   Brand: Estate   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Ok let me give alittle recent history about this fridge, about a month ago it would constantly run and would never stop and within a week it would need to be defrosted because the freezer compartment would be completely iced over. I discovered the defrost thermostat (bi metal) was faulty and bubbled and replaced it. Almost immediately after replacing it I noticed that the fridge would constantly leak water from the freezer to the fridge compartment below, and leak continously. The one plus is that it would be cold in the fridge and the freezer would indeed stay cold, but it would continue to leak. In fact, I turned the theromstat dial down to a hair above being completely shut off, which seemed to have no bearing on the temp whatsoever, it was still very cold. I started putting a small towel by the drail holes because it would leak so bad it would drench a towel every other day. Today, the fridge completely stopped. The lights in the fridge of course work, but nothing else does, no sounds period. I popped off the backing in the freezer and to my surprise there was NO ice, no frost, just pure metal and wires and a TON of water. Im guessing since I replaced the bi-metal defroster that it never did allow a frost, it just continued to heat up and drip in the fridge below. Now, Im not the kind of person who would ask an ignorant question and make someone do all the legwork, I researched what I could and Im GUESSING its one of 2 things, the thermostat or the overload. Both are not very cheap, being that Im a broke mo fo I cant afford to just blindly buy both parts...Im wondering if anyone has any input or any tests I could run to pinpoint the actual problem. If neither the overload or theromstat sound as the problem, ill happiliy be proved incorrect if it means fixing this darn thing.

ps. also the condenser seemed to be warm when it was plugged in. not sure if that means anything. It is unplugged now. I also have a digital cam if pics are needed, didnt smell any burning or see wiring melted, etc.

Please help, I would greatly appreciate it!

thank you in advance,

Les


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Last edited by Leshgr : 06-19-2009 at 09:38 PM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 12:14 AM
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I just tried plugging the fridge in after about 5hrs sitting, filled the freezer with ice bags trying to salvage the food, but this time the unit turned on. So I guess that would rule out relay/overload?

Thermostat sound likely? Please someone help.
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Old 06-20-2009, 05:43 AM
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Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little air pressure will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make sure it drains quick enough. The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Give an update on other problems.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:47 AM
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Hey woodchuckie, I flushed it out, everything is ok with that, so that isnt/wasnt the issue.

When I put the dial/thermostat on the "normal" setting the fridge runs n runs and never shuts off. It seems as if the dial/theromstat isnt registering correctly, as I said before, it doesnt matter what setting I put it on, the fridge gets no warmer or cooler, it pretty much stays the same. The only time there is a change is when I put it a HAIR above shutting it off, it then will shut off here and there for a brief period of time, only to start up and dump water in the fridge below.

there is no frost or "snow" builing in the cooling compartment as one would expect....could this be a thermostat issue which could have the defrost thermostat CONSTANTLY heating too hot, never allowing it to build up? Please helpp!!!
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:00 AM
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Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes.

If there is never any frost on the evaporator coils behind the back cover in the freezer there is a compressor or freon problem

The thermostat should cut the unit off if it's reaching the proper temp.What is the temp in your freezer? Should be near 0 degrees.

The defrost thermostat prevents the defrost heater from warming the freezer too much by shutting the defrost cycle off.

Exactly where is the water standing in the freezer.

Your defrost timer(adaptive defrost control is part 4 in diagramReplacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TT18TKXKQ00 | AppliancePartsPros.com 3>
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Old 06-23-2009, 01:46 AM
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woodchuckie, thanks again for replying...

there are 2 holes in the fridge part on either side of it that connect to the freezer. I dont know what these holes are for, other than draining water. It seems to only drain out of the LEFT hole, nothing out of the right hole, draining only into the fridge compartment, nothing on the floor at all.

As I said, if I set the theromstat on "normal" cool? it will run and run and never stop. If I set the control on just a HAIR above shutting it off (well below "0" setting, it will still run and run but it will shut down for a few minutes here and there every once and awhile.

Could it be a thermostat problem?? or do u think the thermostat is fine and it sounds like a defrost timer?

thanks again for helping me, it is much appreciated.
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:40 AM
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There are vent holes to allow the evaporator fan in the freezer to circulate the cold air to the fridge. Do you think this is what the holes are you mentioned.

If the temp is reaching the set temp and thermostat is not cutting it off then it is a thermostat problem. If it's not reaching the proper temp it's not supposed to cut off.

Another way to check thermostat(cold control)> Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com
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