Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC)
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Greetings:
Have been having issues where the defrost cycle was not occurring, and cooling coil would freeze up. Per information via internet, I replaced the defrost timer. Problem abated for 3-4 months, and is not rearing its ugly head again.
Tested defrost element with DVM, and it shows around 25 ohms. I did measure AC line voltage across the element when the timer timer was activated for defrost.
Is there another part besides the T stat that might be causing a high resistance and impeding current flow to the element??
Thanks Don
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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If its not defrosting properly and you turn the defrost timer manually and the heater comes on and heats I would say the timer is bad. If you manually turn the timer and you get 120V across the heater and it doesn’t get hot replace the heater. If the thermostat were bad you wouldn’t get voltage across the heater. 25 ohms on the heater sounds about right but if it’s a metal heater check for continuity from one of the terminals to the metal part of the heater you shouldn’t get any reading and if you do replace the heater. [FONT='Times New Roman'] But it may not be a defrost problem. Is the frost all across the coils top to bottom and side to side or is it just frost on the sides or top? Refrigerator Not Cooling Repair Guide[/FONT]
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Hi APM:
The frost is all over and throughout the coil. If left to its own, it eventually becomes a solid block that does no good, and the fan runs nonstop.
I have been a Frigidaire fan for many years due to my Grandfather having very good experiences with them. When we moved into our current house in 2000, I went to my local box store and bought all FD appliances.
Nine years later, we have replaced the washer and dryer as well as having continued issues with this $849 superduper refrigerator. Our dishwasher which was installed in 2005 also is not holding up.
I am afraid that the examples of having the same trouble free appliances for 20+ years is no longer a reality.
Thanks for your input. I already have a new timer under warranty on the way from APW. Hopefully this will be the cure.
Don
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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[FONT='Times New Roman']Frigidaire used to be the best on the market I not sure I would say that now. [FONT='Times New Roman']But I got to say all appliances break down and always have. [/FONT][/FONT]
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
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AP:
Replaced the defrost timer, and still no defrost. What is the test for the defrost T stat? Is it a simple continuity test??
Hard to think that the defrost element itself has croaked, especially when I get the 25 ohm reading.
Have not checked it from either wire to external shell though..
Please help............................Don
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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The thermostat is a simple continuity test but it has got to be cold enough to be closed. You have to check it before you remove the ice.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
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APM:
Tore it apart again today, and am now getting a complete open on the defrost T stat no matter what temp it is at. I bypassed it, activated the defrost cycle on the timer, and burned my finger.
So, I have a new T stat on order. BTW, how long is that element supposed to be red hot??
I would hate to think that this stat has been my issue all along.
Don
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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It was probably your problem all along. The heater stays on as long until the timer cuts it off or the thermostat cuts it off.
Do not leave the thermostat by-passed even just until you get the part. If you did go back, disconnect the wires, isolate them from each other and tape the ends so that they can’t short out.
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