[brew]

I had to defrost my freezer manually again(1X week). I have already replaced the defrost timer. So, after defrosting I let everything run for an hour or so and cycled the defrost timer to kick in and I felt no heat from the unit. Also the compressor runs non stop except when the defrost timer kicks on, don't know why or if this is part of the problem. Compressor will stop if I turn the fridge side temp control to off, but any other setting causes it to run non-stop. Have cleaned out under the fridge as best as I could.So I checked on here for help and have the problem narrowed down to either:
1) Heater coils are bad
2) Defrost thermostat is bad
3) Fridge temp controller is bad

I am even close in my assumptions or completely off base. Also if it is the heater coils are they hard to replace? Would the service manual be of great assistance in my quest not to have to manually defrost this thing anymore?
Thanks,
Brew

[kooler]

You should be able to visibly inspect the glass defrost heater for burnout (with frost buildup removed) AP4070699; it will usually show black/blue evidence of arcing inside the glass rods... If not then a resistance reading with an ohmmeter across the heater will tell if it's good or not... Your next culprit is the defrost thermostat AP4055031 of which I would replace anyways if the heater is defective... Use a thermometer to diagnose your temp control, if temps run below 32° in the fridge or product is freezing in the fridge compartment and the compressor continues to run regardless of how warm you set the temp control then it's bad...

[woodchuckie]

Part 20 on diagram 11 is your heater. Replacement parts for CROSLEY CS22Y7DW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here's how some have done it.



The can drinks in refrigerator were not as cold as usual. I opened the freezer and touched the back panel and noticed there was a frost buildup. Since I have had this problem before, I knew that the defrost heater must be bad. I removed all the shelves and the tracks. The back panel is held in by 8 small sheet metal screws. I removed the screws and pulled the back panel up and out. The refrigerator is in garage, so I put a fan in front of it and the fan melted the ice off the coils. I disconnected the wires and checked the the heaters (both wired together) with an ohm meter. The meter showed the heaters to be open. (bad). Actually only 1 of the 2 heaters were bad, but I replaced both of them since they are wired together as a set.




Found a tip online that said to check the resistance of the defrost coil, when I had none I knew the coils had burned out. Before pulling the old coil out I tied on some long pieces of string as was suggested, that made things go very quick! The hardest part was reaching to the back of the narrow freezer space, but fortunately I have long arms. So far all is working well, and I have a great deal of satisfaction knowing I did the repair myself!





I removed all covers then removed screws from element and disconnected wires and removed it.
when installing the new heater I payed close attention to the routing of thw wires to insure that the terminals were connected properly. I then replaced all covers and turned the frig on and in a couple of hour it was working great again

[brew]

Thanks alot figured those things were bad. Just wanted to be 100%. Also will I need to solder the connections? Or is there another way to do it?

[woodchuckie]

It appears to have plugs on the end, so unless it's corroded just plug in in.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/PartImage.aspx?imgid=Z3BqLjBfbXNfNjQ4MTAwMTYvTFBXL 3NvdG9ocHRyYXAv